Firstly, I had my model number slightly wrong, I had stated "wfw9400sw00" and it is actually "wfw9400su01" I double checked the two parts I had ordered from you so far and they were good for both models. So, I didn't understand what was meant by "siphoning" referred to in the last response from you guys? Also, I called a local tech because I thought he might as well just come out and look it over. He suggested trying replacing the water inlet valves just in case. He said that he had solved the f-20 in this way in the past and it couldn't hurt to do this before moving on to looking at the ccu, or whatever the main chip or board is in this machine. What do you think about that? I thought about maybe buying a new machine because I am tired of not being able to get my laundry done at home, until I saw the price of a new washer, I will try some more avenues before I break the bank with a new machine. Thanks in advance for your answer.
Answer Hello Jeff. If the drain hose is stuck to far into the drain pipe, (more than 6"), then it can cause the water to siphon out of the tub, thus the error code for no/long fill time. You need to check the drain hose on the unit.
I ordered a replacement flow meter for my washer which was showing an F-20 error. Prior to this I had removed and checked the hoses and screens on the machine and removed a small bit of mineral deposits which did nothing to help, we also tested the flow of the output pump and when the machine empties it looks very normal with a ton of water coming out fast. Fast forward to me replacing the flow meter, The existing meter shut the machine down about 15 min. into the wash cycle. The new one shut down the machine within 30 seconds. The existing or original meter would allow you to restart the load and it would finish. The new meter will not allow a restart. It just keeps shutting the machine down immediately. What are your ideas as to what is going on? BTW, I did the diagnostic test though I didn't quite understand what was supposed to happen but it seemed to show me the f-20s a number of them and then proceed to test c01 c02 and c03 before turning off. Does that mean something?
Answer Jeff, When you program into the " Diagnostic Test" mode, the control automatically displays the last four error codes, then proceeds into the Tets program (C;00,C:01,C:02, etc.) If there is a malfunction or an issue, the count down and operation will stopand hold at that point. If you're sure the fill hoses and valve screens are clear of any debris, and you have plenty of cold and hot water floeing from the faucets, your next check is the air dome hose and pressure switch W10004260, W10514214. Since you replaced the flow meter with no improvement, this would indicate the CCU is not "seeing" a change in the water level switch circuits, in the allotted time. Disconnect the air dome hose from the water level switch, and blow in the end of the hose, this should clear any debris or sediment, that may have accumulated in the hose itself. Check and make sure the connections between the water level switch and CCU are tight and locked in position, and try the operation. If the F20 error code persists replace the water level switch.
My washer does not clean well. it seems there is not enough water in the tub. In a large load there are dry spots on the clothes in the middle. Would this be the pressure switch or flow meter or both ?
Answer Tom, If you had an issue with the flow meter or pressure switch, you'd have an "error" code and the washer would would "shut down" and not operate. The washer only uses 6 to 7 gallons of water per fill cycle on average. If you remove the lower access panel, you should find the "Tech Data Sheet" on the left hand side of the cabinet, and can conduct the diagnostic test, and review the diagnostic error codes, and have a better idea of the issues with your washer. We'll send you some information that shoukld be helpfull. Thanks
Once in a while there is still water in the tub when you take out the washed clothes. Do you think this is the pump, sensor, or the control module?
Answer Hello Pat,
This is usually caused by foreign items and debris in the sump area. I'm referring to the area between the tub and the pump. This area has a filter cap that can be removed for quick access and easy cleaning on your model. The lower front access panel has to be removed to get to it but you're looking at a 20 minute job. Not a hard job at all.
Hi, I have been getting an LF code for months on my washer, have checked the hoses, connections. I don't want to pay someone to fix this if I can fix it myself. The repair guy we talked to says it is either the flowmeter or something else pressure switch maybe? Is there anyway to be certain one of these is the issue?
Answer Hello Sandy. LF is for long fill. Check and see if the cold and hot water flows good into the unit, and make sure the drain hose is not siphoning the water out into the drain pipe. Only about 6" of drain hose should be inside the pipe. If all is good, and the machine fills with water properly and does not overfill, then the flow switch W10110225 is the most likely cause. These are not hard to replace. Just remove the top of the washer and you will see it inline with the water valve. Release the clamps and install the new switch. Make sure the large round part is facing down toward the floor and is not sideways. Hope this helps.