I bought part 2323198 defrost heater and watched video. My model is different than that of one in video. The bottom rails are not removable. How can I get the heater pan out to remove the defrost heater? Please help. I've been without refrigerator for about 3 weeks now.
Answer Lynette, We reviewed the video for the heater element replacement. We find it to be pretty accurate. In your case, you have molded in "slides" for the lower bin(s). You may find it easiest, if once you have the evaporator cover screws removed and the top portion remove from the fan housing assembly, to raise the cover up enough the clear the molded in slides, then slide the cover up and out of the freezer compartment. You'll need to be careful, the cover does have sharp edges, and can damage the freezer liner, you'll find it safer to slightly "twist" the panel to keep the edges away from the liner.
Does not freeze or cool.
Answer Hello Eddie. Here is a link to our Repair Forum, this is a free service to our customers. Use this link to access the repair for your question. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/refrigerator-freezer-repair/193358-freezer-fridge-not-cooling.html
My refrigerator trip the GFI breaker after running for a several hours. If I reset the GFI and turn the defrost timer until it clicks, the refrigerator begins to run again. Could it be a shorted defrost timer or a shorted heater element? What's the easiest way to troubleshoot. Please help.
Answer Hello Richard,
The manufacturer advises against plugging into a GFCI receptacle. This is directly from an installation guide for a 22 cubic foot refrigerator:
Electrical: A 115 Volt, 60 Hz., AC only, 15- or 20-amp electrical supply, properly grounded in accordance with the National Electrical Code and local codes and ordinances, is required.
It is recommended that a separate circuit, serving only your refrigerator, be provided. Use a receptacle which cannot be turned off by a switch or pull chain.
If this product is connected to a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) equipped outlet, nuisance tripping of the power supply may occur, resulting in loss of cooling. Food quality and flavor may be affected. If nuisance tripping has occurred, and if the condition of the food appears poor, dispose of it.
Water: A cold water supply with water pressure between 30 and 120 psi (207 and 827 kPa) is required to operate ice maker and water dispenser. If you have questions about your water pressure, call a licensed, qualified plumber.
Reverse Osmosis Water Supply:
The pressure of the water coming out of a reverse osmosis system going to the water inlet valve of the refrigerator needs to be between 30 and 120 psi (207 and 827 kPa).
I doubt that there is anything wrong with the unit since it has a strong current draw during defrost and during the initial start-up of the compressor. If you wanted to check for sure, you could use a heavy duty three prong appliance extension cord to try plugging the unit into a standard receptacle. It has to be a dedicated line so if anything else is running off the same breaker, the additional load would have to be removed to prove a problem with the unit.
Freezer side works well, but the refrigerator side does not get cold.
Answer Hello John. It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater 2323198 and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Freezer is 5 degrees but frig is 50 degrees, coil is iced over. What could be our problem?
Answer Hello Judy. It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater 2323198 and the defrost thermostat W10225581. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer 8201661. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Note: This question is for the older version of this part, but we thought you might still find it helpful
Ice build up on freezer coils. I replaced defrost timer control, heating element still not heating. Should I replace element and bi metal? How difficult is this to do? Thank You. Guy
Answer Hi Guy. Yes, 60% of defrost failures are because of the defrost thermostat part # W10225581. You can use a ohm meter to check the continuity of the heater should read 11-18 ohms. This part # is 2323198. Thank you.