I have been through five thermostats in the last two years and have been defrosting manually for over six months. Three times the dealer has sent out service men or come himself. I have replaced the thermostat myself as well. I have now determined that the defrost heater is burned out. My wife wants a new fridge, but I think I just need to replace the heater and maybe the thermostat again.
I don't see how to remove the defrost heater from the condensor. I removed the clips, but it seems intertwined with the tubing. Do I need to remove the condensor? If so, how?
I have been told that a defrost heater that is "going bad" can burn out defrost thermostats. I would think that as an element goes bad the resistance goes up, but that would result in less current and that would not burn out the thermostat. Does the resistance go down or does it go up?
Answer Duane, Besides replacing the defrost heater 67001794 and thermostat 12001937, you'll want to check and make sure the thermostat is mounted to the evaporator tube, tightly and properly. check and make sure the splices for the defrost thermostat and tight and sealed against moisture and water. and check the multi pug, in the back wall for the same. You may need to remove the compressor compartment cover, and check the harness connector in the freezer floor and make sure the wires and connectors are tight and making good connections.
My defroster is not working, I'm getting ready to run test on the defrost thermostat (limiting switch) and the heater evaporator. My question: When performing a continuity test on the Heater Evaporator with a digital multimeter, using the Ohms setting of 20k, what type of resistance reading should I get to know if it is good?
Answer Get-r-Done, Based on your meter and setting. I would expect a resistance reading of 15 to 20 ohms across the two wires on the heater assembly. That style defrost heater is usually an "open" (no resistance) or "closed" (any resistance) circuit, on any meter or setting. The defrost thermostat has to be at a temperature of 32 dgrs.F or below in order to test for a "closed" circuit( a glass of ice water works well) any temp. above will usually produce an "open" circuit. If all checks are good and in range, you'll need to consider the defrost timer 67001036 located up inside the refrigerator control/light panel assembly. Good Luck and Thanks
How do I change out the defrost heater?
Answer Hello Ladybug K. Here are the instructions from the manufacture. Hope this helps.
You will need to disconnect the power to the unit. Empty all contents from the freezer.
Remove Freezer back Panel:
1. Press tabs that hold both freezer door glides in place at the left and the right side of the compartment .
2. Remove the freezer drawer glides.
3. Remove either the left or the right drawer glide adapter to all for removal of freezer wall.
4. Remove freezer air grill by prying inwards toward center with screwdriver in the two slots provided for release tabs.
5. Remove hex head screws holding back panel and ice maker in place.
Removing Defrost heater:
1. Follow instructions on removing freezer back wall.
2. Remove the hex head screws holding evaporator to back cabinet freezer wall.
3. Disconnect plugs from both sides of heater.
4. Release connectors from air dams on each side of evaporator coil.
5. Grip evaporator tubing at left and right sides and tug evaporator sharply forward. Then roll evaporator forward and up, exposing evaporator heater in its location amid fins at bottom of evaporator.
6. Take care to notice how and where they are placed, remove the spring clips that hold heater into evaporator fins.
7. Pull evaporator heater out of evaporator fins, being careful that heater electrical leads do not snag on evaporator.
8. Reinstall in reverse order.
How do I test the old defrost heater? Do I simply test for continuity?
Answer Hello Nick. Yes, you will test for continuity and it should read closed. Hope this helps.