What are the differences between heater sub-assembly #AP4289905 and heater assembly #AP4038069?
Answer Dick, part number 307178 is the entire assembly which includes the heat sheild and thermal fuse. Part number Y308612 is the housing and element only, it does not include the heat shield and thermal fuse. Thanks!
I replaced the gas coils, thermal fuse and thermostat. The dryer seems to still take a while to get hot. It seems warms at first then at the end of the cycle is hot. Time for drying seems longer than "normal." Any suggestions on what the problem might still be?
With replacing the components that you have already replaced then you will want to look at venting. The venting should be clean and clear. You will want to check from the blower when all the way from the blower wheel to the outside of your home. This is one of the most common reasons for a dryer to stop heating properly.
My dryer is not getting hot enough also. It takes 2 full runs to dry fully. All the vents are cleared, The heating coils are all glowing full when on. I just replaced the moisture sensor & the high temp thermostat. Yes I cleaned out the lint filter area & the blower wheel is turning. The moisture sensor light used to always show high, but now just the low light. Please help.
Answer Jamie, you've checked a lot of things, a couple of more things. Check the rubber seal between the blower housing and the inlet duct, make sure there is a tight fit between the two comonents, if it's sucking room air into the blower, it throws the thermostats off. Check and make sure the dryer is level in both directions, When you replaced the moisture sensor, did you clean the surrounding area and make sure the wires were attached properly to the bar and frame, if thats alright then you'll need to repalce the dryness control display. the light "HI" light should illuminate whenever something damp/wet touches the new moisture sensor bar, a new bar and if the wires are OK the problem would be in the display board 33002389 . Thanks and Good Luck
My dryer is not putting out any heat, so I am assuming I need the heating sub assembly?
Answer Hello. You can test the heater and thermal cutoff fuses using a multi-meter TJMA-DM1. They should read closed for continuity. Thanks!