Is the thermal fuse at the top of the heat duct above the heater near the outlet to the dryer? the bottom one is the heator limit switch correct.
Answer Hello Mike! The thermal cut off 279769 is located at the top of the heater and the high limit thermostat 3390291 is located at the bottom of the heater. The thermal cut off kit includes the high limit thermostat. Hope this helps!
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Dryer blows, but wont heat?
Answer Hello Jeff. Check and make sure you have 240 volts coming to the dryer. Also check the heater and thermal fuses and see if they are good. You can test these with a multi-meter TJMA-DM1. They should read closed for continuity. Hope this helps.
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Dryer didn't have heat so replace heating element but coil still doesn't turn red. Could it be the thermostat or something else.
You will want to check the thermostats and thermal fuses for continuity. If there is no continuity then they are bad. If they check ok then, there are 2 components other than the thermostats which would cause the heating element not to work. First is the motor and second the timer. The best option is to disconnect the power to the unit and access the heating element. Disconnect one wire that is going to the heating element, preferably the one on the thermostat side. Plug the unit back up and using a multimeter you will want to turn the dryer on and test for 120 vac at the terminal on the heater where the wire was disconnected. What this will do is eliminate the heater element itself and the motor. If there is 120 vac at this point then you know the heater is good and the motor is good because the other 120 vac coming through the thermostats is the timer side of the circuit. If there is not 120 vac at that point then you will want to test the other terminal on the heater and check for 120 vac. If there is not 120 vac then the motor would be bad and if there is 120 vac then the heater would be the issue.
Dryer ran perfect yesterday, will not turn on today. What should I check first or replace.
You will want to first check the door switch for continuity with the door closed. If no continuity then you would need to replace the switch. Then you want to check the thermal fuses to make sure that they are not blown. The thermal fuses should have continuity. If not then replace the fuse.
You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
My dryer is running but no heat coming out. What do part do I need to replace?
Answer Hello Tomas. Check and make sure you have 240 volts coming to the dryer. Check and make sure the unit is not set to Air Fluff. Also check the heater and thermostats and see if they are good. You can test these with a multi-meter TJMA-DM1. They should read closed for continuity. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Dryer will blow hot air only for a short time, then blows cold air. Replaced the timer, however was sent a bad timer from manufacturer,(would not count off time correctly), but still did the same thing when installed. Put old timer back on, do I need thermister, or high limit thermostat or both?
If the unit is not heating at all then you would want to test the thermal fuse. It sounds like the high limit may be bad but would not be able to determine which part could be the culprit without a full model number. To properly assist you we will need your model number to help you with this. Please post your model number with a new question on the parts page. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
We believe our heating element went out...how do we know for sure?
Answer Hello Jen. Test the element and it should read closed for continuity.