The heating element on my Maytag Duet dryer has power going to it but does not heat. I checked the element and the coil is in good shape, no breaks or cracks. What is causing it not to heat?
Answer Hello Don,
You need to make sure that the unit is getting 240Vac if it is an electric model. If it is a gas unit, the voltage should be 120Vac and you must have a good ground and neutral. There are several components in both the gas and electric models that, if open, will break the circuit and prevent the units' proper operation. If you could please re-post with a model number, we can help you to get the unit operating normally once again.
my dryer wont start and the 'check lint screen' light lit up and i dont know where or what to check
Answer Paul, The palce to start is the dryer door switch 8283288. If the switch or wores are damaged, the dryer won't start and the check filter light will stay on. We'll send you some additional information that will help you out. Thanks
The dryer wont start and the "check lint screen" light lit up so what do I have to do?
Answer Hello Paul. If the lint screen is clear, you may need to replace the thermistor in the unit.
I have replaced 3391914 and purchased the thermal fuse kit #47. After replacing thermostat dryer is still running on HOT. Could this be that I need the control board. Heating element is stays on glowing at all times.
Answer Hello Steve. You need to check and see if the heater is grounded out and staying on. If so, replace the heater. If the heater is good, the thermistor may be bad on the unit and will need to be replaced. Test the temperature coming out of the dryer duct and see if it cycles. If so, the vent is the issue with the unit. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
My dryer does not heat enough when it is in the automatic mode. It heats up fine in the timed dry mode. Could this have something to do with the moisture sensor? And where can I find a wiring schematic?
Answer Hi Terry. Take the top or the front panel off and use the supplied tech sheet to put the unit in a diagnostic mode. It will bring up fault codes of which circuit is affected to check. Start at the terminal block and see if you have 240 vac there. Than insure that you have 120 vac at the middle terminal (neutral) and each outer terminal. Scuff up the 2- inside sensor bars on the lint filter cover with a schotchbrite pad to get rid of the fabric softener sheet build up. The thermistor part # 8577274 is on the blower housing. It should ohm out to 10,000 ohms cold . If it is more then 5% difference the replace it. It is the cycling sensor that controls the heater relay on/off from the control board part # (in essence). Make sure the vent is entirely clear and not restricted. Make sure the outside vent cap / hood is opening and closing properly 4-5x /yr. so lint and moisture does not back up and create a restriction causing these issues. Are there any fault codes showing already ? Make sure the control buttons are not stuck in. Check the exhaust temperature at 125°- on temperature- and when it reaches 150 ° it opens. Thank You.
My exhaust vent system consist of a 90 elbow off back to the right,another 90 elbow directed to 12 o'clock followed by vertical straight 4ft, 90 elbow followed by horizontal straight 8ft connected to louvered hood.it meets manufacturing installation requirements but the side wall of cabinet gets extremely hot and have had to replace heating element prematurely, no kinks / no clogs . can a booster fan be added ?
Answer Mike, Based on your post information, you have a total of 46 ft. of "operating" vent. That would be considerred "borderline", maximum vent length is 50 feet of "operating" vent. A shorter, straighter vent system routing would be beneficial, but a booster fan would work as well.
You may want to check the rear drum seal for an air leak due to a torn seal, or rolled seal, causing the air to escape, and heat the cabinet interior. Thanks and Good Luck
Got new ran every day for 6 years heating element went bad, replaced ran fine for a few months element went again. Cause?
Answer Hello Mike. It sounds like the venting system is clogged or kinked. You will need to check the vent and clean it out. Be sure and clean the vent pipe and the dryer air duct assembly. If the air flow is not good, the unit will retain moist air causing the clothes not to dry. Try running the unit with the vent unhooked from the back of the dryer and see if the dryer works properly. If it is good, then replace the thermister 8577274. Hope this helps.
I had the heating element, thermostat and thermal cut off tested, the element was bad. The problem is, I do not know which wires connect to which parts. There doesn't seem to be any reference to positive or negative to determine which wires on the harness go back to each component.
Answer Hi David. Behind the control panel is a wiring diagram. The thermal fuse wires are blue and lt. blue,either post for hook up is Ok. The thermister is red/wht and black wires, either post is Ok. The heater is red and red/white. The red/wht wire needs to follow the heater post to the high limit. Then the other side of the high limit is black wire to the thermal cut -off. Then the other side of the thermal cut -off is a red wire to the electrtonic control board. Thank you.
Lowes is telling me my Whirlpool duet dryer model GEW9250OW1 thermostat comes in 2 parts, not 1. Are your parts OEM? Thank you, Marco.
Answer Hello Marco! We have located model GEW9250PW1 (P instead of O). The high limit thermostat 3391914 only includes one part and there is only one on your product. However, there is a thermal cut off kit available, part number 279973, which includes the thermal cut off and high limit thermostat. Our parts are OEM. Thanks!