Recently the clean light will start blinking after about 20 - 30 min of the wash cycle. I have replaced the circuit board and I still have the problem. I can run one cycle after I run through the rest sequence. It does take a lot longer to run the cycle than it used to. Is my problem more likely the Hi-Limit Thermostat or the heating element?
Answer Hello Scott,
When the clean light flashes it can only mean one of two things. It can mean that a button is stuck and the control panel is in need of replacement or it can mean that the heating circuit has failed. The way to tell which has happened is that if the heating circuit has failed, the clean light will flash seven times with a pause and then flash seven times with a pause, etc. If this is the case, you need to troubleshoot the heating circuit. There are five components: the heating element, the high limit thermostat, the door switch, the control, and the wiring harness.
There should be a tech sheet behind the kick panel which will show the wiring diagram. This should enable you to shoot through the circuit with an ohm meter. If it reads open from the control board, you will need to test each component individually. I have found that if the unit is solidly mounted under the counter top and is properly leveled, the heating element is the most common part to fail. Let us know if we need to render further assistance.
In my dish washer it does turn on and drain water if there inside of sum pump and clean led light flashing 7 times. No water coming inside through inlet valve. What could be the problem?
Answer Hello Noor. If the clean light is flashing 7 times, you have a heating error. You need to press heated dry, normal, heated dry, normal, and the unit will start and run. Let it complete the cycle to clear the code in the unit. Then check the heating circuit.
When I run my dishwasher it will run for a short while (10 minutes) and then the fuse will trip in the house. When the fuse is reset the dishwasher will run for a short time and then trip again. It has worked without issue for the previous 2 years. I pulled the heating element and tested it for continuity and it appears to be functioning. Could it be the high limit thermostat?
Answer Dylan, There is a slight possibility the hi limit thermostat 661566 could be the issue, but very slight. The hi limit thermostat is a "safety" device that "opens" when the temperature exceeds 170 dgrs. It's more likely that you have a pinched or shorted wire in the harness, when power is applied to the heater circuit, there's a direct short to chassis ground and the breaker trips. You'll need to check the wires from the control board down to the hi limit and from the heater back up to the door switch, especially at the bottom of the dishwasher door, where the wires transfer from the door to the lower components under the tub.
After about 10 min. my dishwasher stops and the clean light blinks 7 times. What should I check?
Answer Hello Curt. This is a heating circuit failure. You need to check the heater, thermostat, and control board to see which part is bad. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Note: This question is for the older version of this part, but we thought you might still find it helpful
Is the thermostat OEM normally open or closed?
Answer Hello Barry. Normally closed.
Just recently, we started smelling a electric burning smell from the right side of the control panel half way through a wash cycle. I opened up the control panel and I did not see any evidence of any discoloring on the circuit board. I believe that the thermal fuse is issue. Do I need to check the Heating element for a short or even the High Limit Thermostat for a short or open?
Answer John, Yes, you'll want to test the resistance of the heater element (10 to 30 ohms resistance) also check the wiring from the thermostat, and heater to the door, make sure they aren't pinched or jammed along the bottom of the dishwasher or frame. Check the thermostat for a "closed" circuit at room temperature. The most common issue is a loose or weak connection inside the junction box, on the front frame. make sure the wires are twisted together tightly and the wire nuts are installed tightly and taped off the keep moisture out of the connections.