According to the diagnostic using the jumper to test the water supply pump and then the unit, my whirlpool motor module is bad. Although the unit is several years old, it has never been used. Is there a setup step that I may have missed when hooking the unit up to a water supply?
Answer If the valve is good, and the water is hooked up, then it should work. Did you jump from T&H on the module? On some models, you will need to hold the door switch closed while jumping T&H for the icemaker to go into harvest mode. If it doesn't move, then you have a bad module.
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My ice maker stop making ice. So far I change the filter, and water inlet valve and still no ice, I get a flow for water thru the water dispenser.
Ps I fill
the tray with water and it make ice and empt it.
Answer Hello John. Make sure the freezer is between 0° and 5°. You need to check and see if there is power going to the water valve when the icemaker cycles. If so, replace the water valve on the unit. If not, or the icemaker does not cycle, you will need to replace the icemaker on the unit. Also, check and make sure the fill tube on the unit is not frozen and clogged. If so, replace the water valve and thaw out the fill tube. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
My ice maker stopped making ice,Ii tested terminals L to N and got 120 volts I then jumped terminals T to H (with door switch down) and nothing happened. Ii then replaced the module and the symptoms are exactly the same with the brand new module. What else can be the problem?
Answer Mark, are you sure you had the jumper wire properly inserted into the "T" and "H" openings ? The new module should have a resistance of 4000 ohms across the "L" and "M" openings on your meter, This will tell you if the motor is operable( it should be). Test "L" to "H" and there should be 72 ohms resistance if the mold heater is functional. Are you sure the bale arm shut off switch and arm linkage are in the proper position, so the ice maker is not in the "off" position. The mold thermostat should have an "open" circuit at room Temperature, and a "closed" circuit at 15 dgrs.F or lower. But when you jump "T" to "H" at the module, you "bypass" the thermostat and the module motor should run.
My ice maker overflows and spills water all over the floor. What do I need to replace? It still makes ice part of the time.
Answer Hello Jason. If the icemaker is over filling, you will need to replace the water valve on the unit. If it is leaking, but not over filling, you will need to replace the icemaker on the unit.
Ice/water dispenser started smoking and does not work. Electrical smoke actually came out of the ice dispenser shut. Until now the unit worked just fine. Do I just need to replace the motor module? Can you tell me the p/n. Any help is greatly appreciated.
You will want to check the motor module by pulling the icemaker out and seeing if there are any burn marks on the back of the module. You will also want to pull the front trim off of the dispenser assembly and look for burn marks on the control. Pull the ice dispenser motor and look for burnt wiring.
Where on motor module AP3177342 can you adjust the amount of fill and therefore the size of the cubes?
Answer Hello James. If you look at the right side of the control module, you will see a small white screw. You turn the screw to adjust and change the cube size in the unit.
The water freezes in the trough going to the ice maker. Don't know if related, but the water comes out slow from the water dispenser on the front of the freezer door. Can you please give me clues to fix both problems?
Slow water flow can cause the icemaker fill tube to freeze up. For this issue and the water coming out slowly you wll want to replace the water filter. Once filter changed you will also want to clear the fill tube. If it still freezes then you will need a new water valve.