Is part no AP4360427 the complete unit?
Answer Hello Renee. Yes, W10190961 is a 5 cube icemaker.
My question is the ice machine is not making Ice, the control on the door works and when I put a jumper between points T to H the Ice maker does not turn. What can this be? What other recommendations do you have?
With the unit having a emitter board in it the jumper between T and H may not work properly. You will want to check the light on the emitter board. When you open the freezer door the light should be flashing on the right wall. If the light is not flashing then push in on the flapper on the left door and hold the light switch to see if the light is flashing. If it is not then the emitter board is bad. If it is then the unit is in a harvest mode and if the fingers are not turning then the issue would be the motor on the unit. If the light is flashing when you open the door then press the flapper and see if the light glows solid, if solid then the issue would be in the icemaker. If the light continues to flash then the issue would be in the emitter board.
The icemaker has stopped working in my Maytag MSD2254VEY01 refrigerator. It has been a problem (off and on) in the past and is about 3 yrs old. How do I remove the unit to test? I do not see how to unplug it. Water does flow to the dispenser.
Answer Hi. Use a volt/ohm meter part # TJMA-DM1 to assist you in your diagnostics. Remove the lower toe kick panel and read the folded sheet that pertains to the in door ice maker. It uses a Infra red electronic control that is mounted to the inside freezer wall at the upper sides. It monitors the amount of ice in the bin and commands the ice maker to cycle when needed. With the door open and the inner door switch taped shut, then close the flapper on the lt. side control and count the infra red light flashes. The sheet will instruct the code meanings. Electronic controls are part # 4389102. Remove the one on the left and see if you have 120 vac to the board on the center 2 wires. If so then replace the boards. Remove the ice maker lower 2-mount screws from the bottom and carefully slide the ice maker out. Then with it still plugged in, slide it in front -to - back. Remove the front white cover. Insert the volt meters lead into the "L" (line +120vac) And the "N" (neutral -negative). If you have power there then the wiring to the ice maker is good. Strip a 4" length of # 14 gauge wire off on each end. Insert it into the "t" and "h" and quickly place the ice maker into normal place so the water fill tube will correctly be inserted into the ice maker. After 3-seconds remove the jumper and await fill. After a brief time the water valve should energize and send 6-7 seconds of water fill. Make sure the water line coming to the fill tube is not broken or the fill tube frozen. If so repair the tubing or remove the fill tube and dry out completely. If the tube was frozen blocking water fill then replace the water valve part # W10408180. Ohm the water valve coils for resistance (green side is ice) and make sure they are not shorted to the case as well. Thank You.
With the icemaker removed, the voltage at th input harness is 75 Vac. Does this make sense? All the icemaker resistance readings are in acceptable range.
Answer Kramer, You will need to check the voltage at the I/R ice maker sensor assembly behind the control switch/panel on the right wall of the freezer compartment. The 4389102 control boards supply the voltage to the ice maker, 75 VAC, is not enough voltage to operate the ice maker. There should be 120 VAC on the black wire, pin#3 at all times, When the I/R sensor sees there is a need for the ice bin to fill, the voltage on black/white pin#4 will incease to 120 VAC and supply the voltage to the ice maker to run/cycle.