We recently replaced our ice maker because the old-one was leaking inside the freezer. It was pretty simple, 3 screws and the wiring harness. The refrigerator is a 2005, and this is the first part I've had to replace. Since then the new ice maker is working producing ice, with no internal leaks. However the cycle seems very slow, (compared to when the whole unit was new). When the unit was new, it would fill the auger bin over night. Basically empty the auger bin into the bottom bin before I went to bed, and by next morning (8hrs) the auger bin was full again. In the last 6 months or so I'd say the old Ice maker was running notably slower as well, and then it got to causing a stream of ice to freeze from below the front of the unit into auger tray, so I figured it was time to replace it. Now in an 8 hour stretch with nobody taking any ice, the auger bin is only 1/3 full. The water supply seems UN-obstructed, as the door-valve flow works as before. Further more, I've taken a hair-dryer & coat hanger to freezer-side of the water inlet (trough) into the ice maker, and it appears unobstructed as well. Also I have shorted/jumpered the T to H connections and the motor-gear unit is rotating fine. Any help would be appreciated. Eric
Answer Hello Eric,
The ice maker actually has no control over how long it takes the water to freeze. I would suggest to check the condenser coils behind the unit. If they are restricted with a lint/dust build-up, this can cause the temperature inside the unit to be several degrees warmer which will adversely affect the ice makers' production cycles. You can also check the ice door with a flash light, (if light can pass, so can air). The door seals are also on the list of things to check. I have also had to remind customers in the past that checking on the ice maker causes a long cycle since, each time the door is opened, the longer it takes to freeze the water. As per the manufacturer, with the unit running at an average temperature of 0° to 10°F, if the doors are not opened for 24 hours, maximum ice production for a side by side is approximately 130 cubes. The crusher bin will actually hold over 300 cubes so your ice maker seems to be working as the manufacturer says it should. Be aware that dropping below 0° will cause a long harvest since this causes the ice maker to have issues with getting the frozen cubes out to re-fill.
I am concerned because the harness doesn't come unpluged from the wall of the frig. so the old harness would have to fit the new ice maker. optional harnesses do not seem to be an option for this application.
The old harness will work for the new icemaker. To remove the old icemaker you would push in on the clip on the harness and remove. The new harness will just slide into the new icemaker and clip into place.
I have a Whirlpool fridge with model number ED5JHEXTD00 and there's no ice on the tray for several weeks now. Before I order a new ice machine, can you enlighten me on how to check and the procedure on how to make the water flow through the hose? It could be the solenoid valve, right ?
You will want to pull the front cover off icemaker and check the large gear to see if the pins in the middle are broken. If they are broken you will need to replace the icemaker module W10190935. If not then you would want to pull the icemaker out and check the fill tube for being frozen. If the fill tube is frozen then clear the ice and replace water valve W10408179 due to seeping. You can cycle the icemaker by putting a jumper wire between T and H on the icemaker module.
I have a Whirlpool Side-by-Side model GD5SHAXLQ01. Currently my ice maker fills up with water, freezes, but never dumps the ice. I pulled it out, cleaned it up and put it back in, but it is still doing the same thing. I was thinking it would be easier/quicker to just replace the whole ice maker instead of just guessing which part might be broken. Also the ice mold is rather gross (lining is missing in some parts), so I would like to replace that as well anyway. I am having trouble figuring out the part number for the entire ice maker. Is ap4360346 the one I need for my model (picture looks right, but I am not sure if that is the correct one)?
Answer Hello Matt,
The part number for the complete icemaker assembly is 2198597. You may also want to check to make sure that your emitter board is good. When you open freezer door, on the right side there is the icemaker shut off. On this panel there should be a light flashing. When you close the flapper on the left wall without blocking the opening then you should have a solid red light on the right panel. If it continues to flash then the emitter 4389102 is bad and would need to be replaced. When you initially open the door and if there is no light then push the flapper and the light switch and see if the light is flashing. If not then you have a bad board as well and would need to be replaced.
Came back from vacation and found the electric had cut off, refrigerator was a mess. The ice maker is not working. After waiting a day I defrosted the ice out of the ice maker. Does the freezer make have to reach a certain temp to start going through its cycle. The plastic tines are half way up and don't seem to be moving. How does the front cover come off? The ice ice tray is empty at this time.
Answer Hello Roger,
The temperature has to be at least 15 degrees for the icemaker to cycle. The temperature of the freezer should be at about 0 degrees. If you are getting proper temperature then the icemaker should cycle. To remove front cover of icemaker off, where the white cover and black plastic meet, you will look on the icemaker for a place to put screwdriver to pop cover off. Once you get the cover off you should be able to pull the icemaker module off and check for damage to the motor module. you can also test the heater and thermostat for continuity. No continuity means the part is bad. The thermostat should be at correct temperature to read closed. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html