What would cause the dryer to blow cold air instead of hot air? All the settings are set for heat. Could the igniter cause this?
Answer Hello Carl. Check the igniter and see if it is glowing red and hot. A weak igniter can cause the dryer not to lite. Hope this helps.
1 person found this answer helpful.
How do you remove cabinet panel to replace igniter? Thanks. Mike
To access the ignitor, unplug unit from wall. Using a putty knife push in on the spring clips that are located between the main top and the front panel. This will allow you to lift the top. With top lifted, disconnect the door switch and remove the 5/16" screw on either side of the front that holds it in place. Roll front panel forward and lift off. You may be able to access the ignitor at this point but if not then you will have to remove the bulkhead and the drum. To remove bulk head you will remove the 4 screws holding in place and lift off. To remove the drum you will first need to release the belt from the motor and idler pulley. Once removed you will lift drum out and you will have access to the ignitor. Reinstall in reverse.
My dryer stop heating, but it runs. Could it be my ignitor?
Answer Hi Deb, you need to find a valid model number and you will be able to see a parts breakdown on our website. There are a few things that could cause a GAS dryer to stop heating including the ignitor, gas coils, flame sensor or even a thermal fuse. It's also a good idea to check your venting to make sure there is no blockage. A blocked or restricted vent can cause the dryer to run too hot and cause a thermostat or fuse to fail. Here is a link with things to look for when a dryer isn't working. Hope this helps! http://www.appliancepartspros.com/repair-help/dryer-repair-help.html#gas
My dryer heats but only for about 5 mins, then stop heating but still tumbles.
Answer Hello Jeff. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the coils are bad and will need to be replacedin the unit. Test for 3.2-3.6 volts AC at the gas safety valve with the igniter turned on. If the voltage is there, you have a bad safety valve. If the voltage is low, you have a weak igniter and the igniter will need to be replaced. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Dryer has no flame. I replaced the igniter AP4038992, the flame sensor, the thermostats, one coil has 3 connectors, I have a reading from the center prong to the ones on the right and left. Am I missing something? What's next?
Answer Hi James. Check the coils 279834 and see if they test good. You can test the coils using a multi-meter TJMA-DM1. The two prong coil will read 1,000-1,300 ohms, and the three prong coil will read 1,300-1,400 ohms across prongs 1&2, and 500-600 ohms across prongs 1&3. On top of the blower hsg, there is a cycling thermostat part # 31001088. Is the new igniter getting white hot? If the coils are old, they will open under demand. Consider replacing these if they dont ohm out as specified. The thermostats should read closed while cold. Thank you.