I'm having a defrost problem. I've check the continuity of the defrost thermostat and the heater and they are both ok. Does this make the ADAPTIVE DEFROST BOARD the problem and should I just go ahead can change it.
Answer Bruce, If you're sure the doors are sealing, the dispenser door is closing and sealing, and if the heater and thermostat check proper9as you mentioned) Then yes, you do need a new Adaptive Defrost Control Board 12002495 (ADC Board)
The compressor and fan don't run. The defrost adaptive control board has opened circuit. The pin next to open space burned open on circuit board. Any ideas what would cause the board to burn open at this location?
Answer Hello David,
These boards are susceptible to damage from moisture. You should check the ice door and the door seals. If no leaks are located, you should just chock it up to a failed board. The only way I would be concerned is if the board burns out the same way every time. Then you might want to pull the tech sheet and trace the circuit for a possible high current draw from a component lacking the proper resistance.
In my refrigerator, the ice maker does not work and in the freezer all the food is still frozen, however in the refrigerator side the temp. Is warm. Can you please explain what the problems could be. Thank you
Answer Sebastian, There are several possibilities, First, check the freezer back wall for a build up on frost or ice, if there's a build up you may have a defrost issue. While in the freezer compartment, listen and "feel" for the air movement from the evaporator fan W10128551. Then move over to the refrigerator compartment, remove the cover in the left rear corner and check the auto damper 67003519 and make sure the damper door is not stuck or sticking closed.
How do I test the defrost control board, light switch 6 times 5 sec? Is that how all this boards work? Can I UNPLUG THE BOARD AND SIMULATE A DEFROST BY SHORTING THE PINS INSIDE THE CONNECTOR?
Answer Hello Allan. 1. Disconnect the unit from the power
2. Open the fresh food door and remove
any items on the top shelf.
3. Remove the light shield and the temperature
control housing. 4. Connect the refrigerator to a wattmeter.
5. Make sure compressor is running (cold
6. Using an insulated number 22 jumper
wire short between L1 and Test; this will
put the refrigerator into a defrost for
approximately 23 minutes.
7. The watt meter should read between
500 to 600 watts depending on the
Box does not defrost if I unplug the defrost clock and jump L1 to heater which is terminal #4 to terminal #5 and then plug in box to power. It should defrost if defrost heater and defrost thermostat are good correct? I am a technician.
Answer Hello Allan,
This is the old Amana control. You don't short terminals on this control since if you short terminals on this configuration, you can too easily fry the microprocessor.On this configuration you press the door switch in 6 times in 5 seconds. If the control is operational, the unit will go into the defrost cycle. As per the manufacturer, the door switch presses have to be slow enough to be, in their own words, "intentional". Shorting wires together on this model as per the manufacturer is "asking for trouble".
Hello. Freezer coils frozen up. Can I do a forced defrost with this model refrigerator and can I test the defrost heater and thermostat for continuity from the adaptive defrost board or plug?
Answer Hello Phil. There is no need to force a defrost if it is not defrosting. The best way to find the problem is to remove the wall in the freezer and test the heater 67002493 and the thermostat 67003426 for continuity. They should read closed for continuity when cold. If both are good, then the control board 12002495 is bad and will need to be replaced. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html