I have replaced the oven probe the oven still wont get to temperature if it does it takes a while to reach it and wont hold temperature,
Answer Hello Brian,
Several things can cause this to include the gas pressure to the unit, the ignitor 7432P136-60, the safety valve 12002604, and the relays on the control 74009214. These need to be tested to insure the correct part is replaced.
Hi. I replaced the igniter (74008064) for my KichenAid KGRS205TSS range. The igniter heats up and the gas starts flowing, but it still won’t light up after 5 min (you can smell the gas). I cleaned all the holes. Also I can turn on the oven manually, so it looks there is enough gas flow to keep the oven on, but not enough to turn it on automatically via the igniter. Any idea what the problem is?
Answer Hi. Verify the ignitor still ohms out to 50-400 ohms cold. A new ignitor can have a hairline crack in the middle. It is very rare because the manufacturers have worked hard to triple wrap the ignitor for this shipping issue. You need 120 vac to the ignitor. Measure the Safety Valve part # 12002604 for 3.2-3.5 ac volts. If it is there and the ignition takes longer then 30-45 seconds then replace the Safety Valve. If the voltage is lower then replace the ignitor part # 74007498. Make sure all connection's are clean and tight. Adjust the air shutter on the burner is closed all the way to the stop screw. Do not close the shutter but insure the shutter adjustment loop end is opened fully under the stop screw. Make sure the safety valve manual shut off lever is turned off and back on all the way. Thank You.
Everything works except broiler. Igniter glows but burner does not light?
Answer Hello Kevin,
You may want to check the igniter before the valve. The igniter 74007498 has to reach a certain temperature to turn open the gas valve. I would first ohm out the igniter. The ohm reading should be between 50-400 ohms at 75 degrees. Amp draw should be between 3.2 and 3.6 amps when turned on and the voltage should be 120 vac. If you are not getting at least 3.2 amps or do not fall in the correct ohm range then replace igniter.
The stove top works. The oven and the broiler both make the bake error code blink. Before the oven stopped working the stove would lock it self randomly when the oven was on. We had to trip the breaker to unlock it, it would not unlock by the control panel.
Answer Hello John,
The most likely cause is the temperature probe 12001655. The reasoning behind this diagnosis is the fact that the control will lock the door if it see a high temperature in the bake compartment for safety reasons. If the temperature probe is out of tolerance and sending the incorrect information to the control, it will lock the door so no one gets burned. The second suspect is the control 5701M709-60 itself. The door lock mechanism isn't a consideration because it is able to lock and un-lock the door.
bake mode on oven igniter comes on but it doesnt ignite the burner. Could this be a valve ? The broiler works, just not bake mode
Answer Danny, It's most likely a weak igniter on the bake burner 74007498. The igniter has to glow "white" hot, it may glow orange or red, but it has to produce 3.2 to 3.6 amps on the system to open the valve and ignite the burner. That's the more likely issue and not the valve assembly. Thanks
When I have the oven on and stovetop at the same time I hear a poof sound and Ii get a strong smell of gas. It is also taking a long time for the oven to come up to temperature. Any suggestions what part I should try to replace?
Answer Gina, Do you know if your gas supply is Natural gas or LP gas ? Either way, you need to have the gas supply pressure to the stove tested "under a load". If the oven burner "poofs" or is slow to heat when the stove top burners aren't used, then you want to check for a weak burner igniter 7432P136-60 Thanks
We replaced the ignitor on this model in the oven and the top burner works but the bottom doesn't. It will not clean as well. This all started when the wiring to the bottom ignitor melted. The ignitor will not engage even after replacing with a new one. When I tested the wiring going to the ignitor, it tested at 104v ac. Can this part be the problem?
Answer Bob, Yes, it could be part of the issue, the bi metal swirtch inside the valve could be damaged, but you need to determine why theres only 104 VAC to the igniter. That power is supplied from the ERC/ Clock 74009150. You'll need to isolate the clock and igniter at recheck the voltage out of the clock and into the igniter with the oven valve out of the circuit. Good Luck and Thanks
When i turn on my oven and set the temperature, i smell gas and it takes 25 minutes or more to bring it up to temp. (say 350*). I had the ignitor replaced but that doesn't seem to be the problem. Do I need a new gas valve?
Answer Ray, Have you checked the burner flame, color and size ?, an all blue flame, no yellow or white tips and 3/4 to 1 long ? Are the top burner flames proper ? It sounds like you may have a weak igniter or a loose connection in the wiring. You should get a "clamp on ammeter" or multimeter to check the amp draw of the ignition system (3.2 to 3.6 amps) or 3.2 to 3.6 VAC at the safety valve terminals from the glow bar, to verify the igniter operation. If that all checks OK, then go at the safety valve. this may help you out, [http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html] Thanks and Good Luck
Kobe glass top range hood with fan and timer -- do you have repair men that work on these
Answer Hi Harvey. We may have the parts availible should you provide us with the exact model # for your unit. We are a global, parts retailer that can beat or price match parts needed. On our "Repair Forum" you can register a repair question and we will answer any repair questions that you may have. Thank you.