In the back of what appears to be the mold, there is a slight dripping. What could be the problem, do we need to replace the mold or some other part?
Answer Hello Phil,
While it is entirely possible for the ice mold to leak, the first indication of this would be flakes of the enamel finish in the ice. Normally your issue is caused by a defective water inlet valve 2188542.
I received the mold AP4365074 part to replace the current one that is cracked and leaking. The new doesn't have "fins" on the bottom and side like the old one. The wiring harness attaches to the bottom of the old mold. Did I get the correct mold? What do I do with the wiring harness with the large black wire that is currently attached to the old mold? Will this harness work with the new mold? Are there instructions online on how to replace the mold?
Answer Dan, W10190929 is the correct mold for your refrigerator. It is a "substitute" part, meaning the part has been revised over the years, it will look different, but will function in your fridge. Once you start the dismantling, you'll see how the clip holding the harness to the mold can be slipped off the mold using a flat blade tool(screwdriver) and pressed back into position on the new mold. We're sending you some basic ice maker information that should be helpful to you. It's older information, but nothing drastic has changed and you'll do fine using it.
I replaced the mold and stripper arm. After i reinstalled the ice maker the water wouldn't fill the mold. The gears are turning but no water. The parts came with a water fill cup but it was a little different than original. I used the new one. Any ideas?
Answer Tom, The fill cup shouldn't be an issue, but did you check the fill tube to make sure it hasn't froze closed ? Make sure the wiring is seated properly and tight at the harness connector. With a multi meter and the test probes inserted into the "V" and "N' Test openings in the control module you should be able to read the resistance of the fill valve solenoid, and wiring to determine if the circuit is complete ( approximately 500 to 1000 ohms) or using a "jumper wire with both ends stripped back 1/2 to 3/4 inch insert the ends into the same openings and the fill valve should activate and fill the mold, if all's OK, This will also confirm if the control module fill contacts have failed. Thanks and Good Luck
the refrigerator icemaker doesn,t make ice,I have checked all the checkpoints as directed in the troubleshooting part of the manuel.
I need to know how to get the cover off the back of the freezer to expose the icemaker.There are no screws visible and it being just a few month's old I don't want to pry it off and break it. Thanks.
Answer Larry, Here are the instructions from the service manual for your refrigerator. " 1. Unplug refrigerator or disconnect power. Remove food and shelving. 2. Pull off the light cover located in the top left hand corner of the freezer compartment. 3. Remove the ¼” hex head screw below the light bulb. 4. Pull the top of the air duct cover out at the top and lift up to remove. 5. The bottom of the duct has 2 slots that slid onto the top of the evaporator cover. 5. Remove the 4 - 1/4” hex head screws securing the evaporator to the cabinet. 6. Pull out the evaporator cover." Our parts and service information show both screws and clips holding the evaporator cover to the back wall of the freezer. Either way, you need to be careful and not "tweak" or bend the cover. Good Luck and Thanks
I need to replace this mold as the coating is peeling off and the ice doesn't completely fail into the tray. On the Whirlpool website, it says I should buy silicon grease when I buy the new mold. Do you know if I need that and what it is for? Also, I assume that I can replace just this mold without replacing any other parts of the ice maker. Can you confirm that for me?
Answer Scott, Yes, you can replace the mold assembly without any other parts, but you have to be cautious and careful. Actually, you would want to use Food Grade Silicone Grease" 99003172 to lubricate the moving parts in the assembly. Also, make sure you save as much "alumilastic" as possible from the original mold/thermostat connection, you need a good sealed fit between the two components. Good Luck and Thanks