Ice maker mold.
Answer Daniel, the ice mold for your model is part number W10190929. Thanks!
What is the name of the part I need to make ice when the refridge is making water?
Answer Hello Diane,
There are several things that can cause water not come to icemaker. The first thing that you want to do is check to make sure that the fill tube is not frozen. If frozen then clear fill tube and replace water valve. If this checks ok then you would want to pull the cover off the icemaker and on the big gear check to make sure that the pins in the center are not broken. If these check ok then pull the module off the icemaker and check for burnt contacts. If pins are broken or burnt contacts then replace the motor module W10190935 Also do a continuity check across the outer pins and the inner pins. The inner is for the thermostat 627985 and the outer for the heater W10190929. With icemaker being cold the thermostat should read closed and the heater should always read closed. If not then replace the broken component. If this checks ok you can reassembly icemaker and jump contacts t to h and let icemaker cycle. Check for 120vac to the water valve when the icemaker calls for water. This will be whent he fingers of the icemaker reach 11:30 position. If there is power then replace the water valve W10408179. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
In the back of what appears to be the mold, there is a slight dripping. What could be the problem, do we need to replace the mold or some other part?
Answer Hello Phil,
While it is entirely possible for the ice mold to leak, the first indication of this would be flakes of the enamel finish in the ice. Normally your issue is caused by a defective water inlet valve 2188542.
I received the mold AP4365074 part to replace the current one that is cracked and leaking. The new doesn't have "fins" on the bottom and side like the old one. The wiring harness attaches to the bottom of the old mold. Did I get the correct mold? What do I do with the wiring harness with the large black wire that is currently attached to the old mold? Will this harness work with the new mold? Are there instructions online on how to replace the mold?
Answer Dan, W10190929 is the correct mold for your refrigerator. It is a "substitute" part, meaning the part has been revised over the years, it will look different, but will function in your fridge. Once you start the dismantling, you'll see how the clip holding the harness to the mold can be slipped off the mold using a flat blade tool(screwdriver) and pressed back into position on the new mold. We're sending you some basic ice maker information that should be helpful to you. It's older information, but nothing drastic has changed and you'll do fine using it.
I replaced the mold and stripper arm. After i reinstalled the ice maker the water wouldn't fill the mold. The gears are turning but no water. The parts came with a water fill cup but it was a little different than original. I used the new one. Any ideas?
Answer Tom, The fill cup shouldn't be an issue, but did you check the fill tube to make sure it hasn't froze closed ? Make sure the wiring is seated properly and tight at the harness connector. With a multi meter and the test probes inserted into the "V" and "N' Test openings in the control module you should be able to read the resistance of the fill valve solenoid, and wiring to determine if the circuit is complete ( approximately 500 to 1000 ohms) or using a "jumper wire with both ends stripped back 1/2 to 3/4 inch insert the ends into the same openings and the fill valve should activate and fill the mold, if all's OK, This will also confirm if the control module fill contacts have failed. Thanks and Good Luck