clothes do not wring out well, they are not dripping wet but do seem soaked i have replaced belt,pully,and spring.
i do see a gap between brake pads and caliper.
did not see anything in pump when i had it out.
i did use a shop vac to suck out drain line and pump and feed drain for wash tub. they are all clear.water drains from wash tub and helix disengages brakes motor seems like it goes in a 450 to 500 rpm speed but does not go into a 710 rpm motor does not run hot and does not smell. also i had wife do a light load of clothes, same problem.re:one forth the wash tub of clothes
no noises or screeches or knocking. i did clean both pullies b/4 replacing belt too
Answer Dave, Did you also check, clean and lubricate the idler pulley and assembly, and adjust the idler spring tension ? You'll also need to remove and check the brake pads R0000014 for cracks, warpage or excessive wear, indicating the brake pulley R9900474 may be "dragging" due to worn out "fingers" on the plate, or worn washers between the drive pulley 40047102 and brake pulley.
I have an old speedqueen washing machine that does not spin out anymore. it will start to but then the motor gets hot an shuts down. About a minute later it does it again. This cycle continues indefinatly. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Answer Jbob,You're most likely correct, a weak or faulty motor winding, but First check and make sure there is nothing stuck between the tubs or tub cover. Check and make sure the voltage at the outlet maintains at least 105-108 VAC, when the motor starts in the spin cycle, low voltage will stall and cause the motor to smoke and not run. Presumably you've already checked the belt, and idler pulley assembly, as well. If the washer fills and agitates, and the other checks are proper, suspect the timer as the culprit.
Loud constant noise during wash cycle. Fills fine, agitates fine, spins (with some noise but less) fine. Have replaced belt still making noise. Isolated noise seems to come from pump or motor pully. What could it be?
Answer Robert, It's most likely a drain pump issue 27001233 based on your post description. There could be a small article ( bobby pin, needle, button, etc) in the pump itself, or the impeller bearings are worn and making the noise.
The motor only operates on low speed. What would you test first, switch or motor, and how is this done?
Answer Hello Scott,
If I could get a good e-mail address, I have some very good troubleshooting information to send to you. The diagram is easier to understand. If there's no continuity between terminal P and the red wire, you need to replace the high speed switch. When you manually depress the actuator, continuity should be broken from the red wire and terminal P. If not, replace the high speed switch.
You should read 4 to 5 ohms of resistance from the brown wire to the red wire. If not, the start winding is bad and the motor will require replacement. The high speed winding is tested from the blue wire and the yellow wire. This should show from 1 to 2 ohms. If open, the motor will require replacement. Let us know if you require further assistance.