I have kitchenaid KSRG25FKSS15 side by side refrigerator. The Ice Dispenser does not dispense ice when the ice paddle is depressed. It does not work for either cubed or crushed ice position.
Is it possible to test the motor or circuitry to determine what is wrong?? I know how to use a multimeter but I don't know what to check or what voltage, AC or DC, etc it should read.
Additional information. It worked fine up until a couple of days ago when the compressor failed and had to be replaced. We lost all of the contents of the freezer and refrigerator. When the ice maker started to make ice again after the compressor replacement, the dispenser did not work. Could the fact that the ice all melted out of the ice bin when the compressor failed have caused water to run into the motor and cause it to fail.
If the motor is bad, can it be troubleshot and repaired?? Or does it have to be replaced?? How do you troubleshot it??
Thank you fro your assistace.
Answer Joe, Yes, it is possible for water to enter the dispenser assembly and damage the motor, it's not that common an issue. First you'll need to remove power to the refrigerator, access the motor and tape the door switch down. disconnect the wire harness to the motor, you will be testing for voltage on the harness. reestablish power to the refrigerator. Press the Unlocked button on the ice and water dispenser front panel. Touch the AC meter test leads to wire harness pins 3 and 5, then press the ice dispenser lever. The meter should read 115 VAC.
Touch the DC meter’s black test lead to wire harness pin 6, and the red test lead to pin 7, then press the ice dispenser lever. The meter should read +115 VDC ±10%. Press the Crushed ice button on the ice and water dispenser front panel.Touch the DC meter’s black test lead to wire harness pin 1, and the red test lead to pin 2, then press the ice dispenser lever. The meter should read +115 VDC ±10%.
Press the Cube ice button on the ice and water dispenser front panel. Touch the DC meter’s red test lead to wire harness pin 1, and the black test lead to pin 2, then press the ice dispenser lever. The meter should read +115 VDC ±10%. If you have the correct voltages, you will need to replace the motor 2188869. If you don't have the voltages, then the front façade panel 2318965B or the harness is damaged.
The icemaker stopped dispensing ice. I took the motor out. Is the motor supposed to turn with auger freely when not hooked up? I can turn it using pliers with the auger. Thank you
Answer Hello Lydia,
This is commonly caused by the dispenser control bracket pins being broken. I would refer you to a replacement part but cannot since there is no model number listed from the appliances' I.D. tag. It would be similar to 2180226.
Need instructions on how to install auger motor mine turns real slow. Seems to be dragging.
To remove the auger motor you will pull out the bin and remove 3 screw holding the auger housing in place. Once screws are removed then you will pull out the auger housing and disconnect the harness that plugs into the wall. You will need to take the coupler off which is threaded so if you grab the shaft with channel locks and tap it to loosen it to take it off. Take out the screws holding in the motor and replace.
How do I test a ice dispenser motor? I removed it and it does not turn by hand.
Answer Hello Eric. You will test for power coming to the motor harness when the dispenser is pressed. If there, replace the motor. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Motor runs but seems as if gears are stripped. If I get motor do I need all parts associated such as the hex drive shaft, coupling, seal, bushing, spring and spring loaded pin?
Answer Hello Hank. This is an issue caused by the door liner being made of plastic. You see, the issue is caused by the plastic door liner changing shape by a small amount and this makes the shaft too short. Believe me, this steel shaft cannot strip. When the motor is setting effectively further away, this makes the shaft slip because it isn't meshing fully. I remove the two 1/4 inch hex headed screws and set the plastic "keeper" and spring aside. Pull the shaft up, out of the hole, (you can grab it with needle nosed pliers). Wrap electrical tape, sticky side out, around itself about 20 times or so and shove the wad of tape into the bottom end of the shaft. It may take a few trys to get the length right, but when you get it right, the shaft will mesh on both ends and it will dispense again. This is one of two ways to correct this issue. The other one is to replace the freezer door assembly.