I've talked to the on line help over the past 3 days but we are stuck. the washer wouldn't spin so I installed a new motor control board and motor. I ran the test as instructed and it spun perfect. After putting the covers back on I ran a wash and again it wouldn't spin.. I've check R11 it looks ok. and I've checked the other switches I can get at. I can hear a small amount of water in the tub but when I take the hose off the bottom nothing comes out. the pump runs all the time during the spin cycle. I've checked the electrical connections to see if anything came loose when I put the covers back on. Any ideas?
Answer Hello Paul,
These are rather complicated to troubleshoot. The first thing I would check on a stacked unit are the connections on the left and right under the lower access panel. These give a lot of connection issues. The next thing I would check is the out-of-balance circuit from the machine control board in the top right of the dryer cabinet. While you should refer to the wiring diagram from the unit the service is being performed on for accuracy reasons, the connection points of the circuit is P2-4 (orange wire) to P3-7 (yellow wire). Be aware that this not only will show continuity through the out-of-balance switches but also goes through the spin enable switch. For this reason, the unit has to be put into spin first and power applied in the spin cycle for about 5 minutes then the unit disconnected from the power source and the test taken immediately. The reason is that the spin enable switch is activated by the wax motor that takes from 3 to 5 minutes to fully engage. That switch can be good but not activated by the wax motor. The wax motor or the latch spring could actually cause an intermittent spin. The spin enable switch is the switch all the way to the right when looking at the door latch assembly. The spring is a flat "S" shaped piece of steel, (item number 2 on the door shroud and door latch assembly parts illustration). If you could provide an e-mail address, we could provide you with additional service literature that might help you out in this issue.
How hardis it to change out the motor control board?
Answer Hello Gary,
To replace the MCU you would remove the main top of unit. Motor control will be on the left hand side of unit if you are facing the front. Remove old and install new.
The machine has an error code "Speed indication error- aatempt to resume programme- if persists contact dealer"
Have tried restarting and always comes up with same fault. Motor is working ok.
Answer Don, You most likely have a loose connection at the JP4 connector, or the motor control board, inside the cabinet has started to fail.. You could also have an issue in the main control board 22004317 ,but at this point not likely. We'll be sending you some more information, that should be helpful in diagnosing the issue. Thanks
After the entire wash cycle is complete there is about 2 inches of water left in the tub. Is this a motor control issue? I replaced this part about a year and a half ago.
Answer Hello Ron,
This is more likely to be a drain pump or a build-up of lint, and debris stopping up the drain. This is what I would try first. Use a drain pump to remove all of the water you can get out from inside the tub. Remove the front panel and access the drain pump. At this point I normally tilt the machine back against the wall. This makes the remaining water go to the back and very little water will escape. Remove the hose from the tub side first and inspect for foreign debris. If it's clear, the issue could be a bad pump. The motor and motor control will not cause the unit to keep water.
My washer will go through the wash cycle and rinse just fine however, when it gets to the final spin cycle and there is 9 minutes left the screen jumps back and forth from 9 to 8 minutes and never completes the spin cycle. I shut it off and the it unlocks and the clothes are wet but the water has drained out.
Answer Hello Peggy.I am sending you a service manual as an attachment. Be aware that the out-of-balance switch on the left rear strut has been eliminated. As per Maytag corporation before they sold out to Whirlpool, This out-of-balance switch was unnecessary and very costly to them as an in warranty item. If your unit has an out-of-balance switch on the left rear strut, as per the manufacturer, cut the connectors off that was connected to this switch and splice them directly together, eliminating the switch altogether. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html