Neither the broil burner or the bake burner turns on. The top burners work just fine, you hear the clicking noise but no sparks come out. When using a flame the burner does light up. Is it possible that both top and biottom ignitors went bad in the same time( altough I am told by my in laws that they never used the feature) -so dont know it ever worked. I suspect there might be more than just the ignitor not sparking.
Answer Hello Marius,
You should first check the Spark module. The spark module will deliver spark to all parts of unit. You can test on the spark module, Connector J1 pin 7 to pin 4 , pin 6 to pin 4 and pin 9 to pin 4 for 120 vac on each location. If you are getting 120 vac then your have a bad spark module. You cannot test the board to the ignitors because the voltage is too high. You can test each ignitor for continuity but not power. On the bake and broil you can test across the pins on the safety valve for resistance. You should have 216 ohms from bake (Red) to common (orange) and broil (Blue) to common (orange). You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
We've been having an issue with the gas oven not lighting - gas would flow, you could hear the igniter clicking, but the gas would not ignite. Removing the floor of the oven, I could see that there wasn't any spark. The range top worked fine as did the broiler.
The problem was intermittent and rare but suddenly got much worse. I replaced the igniter (part no. 9758079) and everything worked fine for about 2 weeks. Now, the oven almost never lights (broiler and range still okay).
At this point, after doing some more reading, I believe the problem is a) a bad ground, b) a bad spark module (part no. W10331686), or c) a faulty control board. My question is how do I determine which is the likely culprit? I'm comfortable using a mutlimeter but am not sure where inside the oven I should attaching the leads to verify the ground for the igniter or to check the floating voltage. And I haven't yet found a guide on how to test the spark module.
Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Answer Pete, You will need to check the resistance of the gas valve coils W10293048, the DC voltage at the valve from the DSI module W10331686 and check the oven burner tube for dirty or clogged ports. You'll need to get access to a multi meter TJMA-DM1 to test the circuits and voltages. Here's the test information; "First thing, check and make sure the power cord is attached to a properly polarized and grounded 120 VAC outlet. A proper ground is very important for the range to operate properly. Then you'll need to make several tests at the gas distribution valve. At the valve body terminals, with the wires labeled and remove from the middle terminal to each of the outer terminals, you should read 215 ohms resistance. With the wires reconnected, when you select the bake cycle, you should have a reading of 8 to 18 VDC across the red and orange wires. When you make a broil selection you should have the same 8 to 18 VDC,across the orange and blue wires. If all checks are proper(within 10%) replace the oven bake burner and or igniter."
Oven lights but will not stay lit. Broiler works fine.
Answer Hello Kyle,
You would also want to check your gas valve coils to unsure that they are not bad. You should have 216 ohms resistance from broil to common and from bake to common. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
I have a GS563LXSS-1 gas range, is a whirlpool gold accubake Craig: when i put it to bake the ignitor lights up the flame shoots down the oven rail and then kicks off.
Answer Craig, If there are no issues with the top burners, you'll need to concentrate on the DSI spark module circuit(s) W10331686, and the oven gas distribution valve W10293048. Here's some help. " First thing, check and make sure the power cord is attached to a properly polarized and grounded 120 VAC outlet. A proper ground is very important for the range to operate properly. Then you'll need to make several tests at the gas distribution valve. You'll need a multi meter to test voltage and resistances. At the valve body terminals, with the wires labeled and removed from the middle terminal to each of the outer terminals, you should read 215 ohms resistance. With the wires reconnected, when you select the bake cycle, you should have a reading of 8 to 18 VDC across the red and orange wires. When you make a broil selection you should have the same 8 to 18 VDC,across the orange and blue wires." If all's OK, check the end of the igniter for damage or distortion Check and clean the venturi openings across the burner the bottom of the burner tube, and replace the DSI spark module.
Hi, This is my 3rd ignitor since March of 2011. When it is installed, the oven works great but after a few months, it stops working. It makes a clicking noise when trying to start and I smell gas. It is trying to ignite but won't. What else could this be?
Answer Hello Ed,
This is probably a bad ground. On a gas unit, a spill can cause the panels to lose electrical contact. By the panels, I am referring to the body as the ignitor has to have ground present for the high tension voltage spark to jump from the ignitor to ground as part of the electrical circuit. When I service a gas unit and there is an ignition complaint, I always check for ground using the neutral as a reference. In other words, neutral always has a small "floating" voltage on it. When you test from neutral to ground you will always see from 3 to 9 volts ac "floating" as it constantly varies. When you see this, you know for sure that the ground is good. So I always test from neutral to the ground where the ignitor spark hits when it sparks properly. This sounds crazy, but it has helped me to solve issues where multiple service calls were unsuccessful in curing the no spark situation.
The issue that this reminds me of, three different technicians had been there and the spark module and ignitors had been changed 4 or more times and the problem was still present, but intermittent at this point. I tested in the fashion pre-described and only noticed .5 to .7 volts ac floating. This enabled me to pin down the lose of the ground several panels down. I removed the screws and sanded around the points where the panel made contact with the other panels, re-installed the screws, and the issue went away.