Oven burner wont stay lit after ignitor qiuts clicking.
The issue with the gas not staying lit or relighting would be caused by a faulty safety valve W10602001 which would need to be replaced.
hello,my oven and broil do not work,surface burners work,control panel works like it normally does,makes clicking noise and thats it oven does not start,no gas smell,thanks for your help
You will want to check the oven safety valve for 216 ohms of resistance. If the unit igniters are clicking but no gas then this is most likely the issue. If there is not 216 from bake to common or from broil to common then the valve would need to be replaced.
The top burners work fine. The broiler stopped working, then the oven stopped working. I hear a click in the panel, then two consecutive clicks in the oven, but no gas, no gas smell. Should I start by replacing the oven ignite thingy?
Answer Love Joy,
You will need to check voltage to the spark module when the unit is turned on to bake. On the spark module you will need to check for 120 vac between J1-6 and J1-4 pins on the spark module. If there is not 120 vac then the spark module is bad. You will then want to check for DC voltage between Pins J1-1 and J1-2 which is for bake for between 8-18VDC. If there is not 8-18vdc then the spark module is bad. If there is not correct voltage then the spark module is bad. If there is between 8-18 vdc then you will need to replace the safety valve. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Neither the broil burner or the bake burner turns on. The top burners work just fine, you hear the clicking noise but no sparks come out. When using a flame the burner does light up. Is it possible that both top and biottom ignitors went bad in the same time( altough I am told by my in laws that they never used the feature) -so dont know it ever worked. I suspect there might be more than just the ignitor not sparking.
Answer Hello Marius,
You should first check the Spark module. The spark module will deliver spark to all parts of unit. You can test on the spark module, Connector J1 pin 7 to pin 4 , pin 6 to pin 4 and pin 9 to pin 4 for 120 vac on each location. If you are getting 120 vac then your have a bad spark module. You cannot test the board to the ignitors because the voltage is too high. You can test each ignitor for continuity but not power. On the bake and broil you can test across the pins on the safety valve for resistance. You should have 216 ohms from bake (Red) to common (orange) and broil (Blue) to common (orange). You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
We've been having an issue with the gas oven not lighting - gas would flow, you could hear the igniter clicking, but the gas would not ignite. Removing the floor of the oven, I could see that there wasn't any spark. The range top worked fine as did the broiler.
The problem was intermittent and rare but suddenly got much worse. I replaced the igniter (part no. 9758079) and everything worked fine for about 2 weeks. Now, the oven almost never lights (broiler and range still okay).
At this point, after doing some more reading, I believe the problem is a) a bad ground, b) a bad spark module (part no. W10331686), or c) a faulty control board. My question is how do I determine which is the likely culprit? I'm comfortable using a mutlimeter but am not sure where inside the oven I should attaching the leads to verify the ground for the igniter or to check the floating voltage. And I haven't yet found a guide on how to test the spark module.
Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Answer Pete, You will need to check the resistance of the gas valve coils W10293048, the DC voltage at the valve from the DSI module W10331686 and check the oven burner tube for dirty or clogged ports. You'll need to get access to a multi meter TJMA-DM1 to test the circuits and voltages. Here's the test information; "First thing, check and make sure the power cord is attached to a properly polarized and grounded 120 VAC outlet. A proper ground is very important for the range to operate properly. Then you'll need to make several tests at the gas distribution valve. At the valve body terminals, with the wires labeled and remove from the middle terminal to each of the outer terminals, you should read 215 ohms resistance. With the wires reconnected, when you select the bake cycle, you should have a reading of 8 to 18 VDC across the red and orange wires. When you make a broil selection you should have the same 8 to 18 VDC,across the orange and blue wires. If all checks are proper(within 10%) replace the oven bake burner and or igniter."
Oven lights but will not stay lit. Broiler works fine.
Answer Hello Kyle,
You would also want to check your gas valve coils to unsure that they are not bad. You should have 216 ohms resistance from broil to common and from bake to common. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html