My oven will not re-light to maintain temp. I set it to heat and it will heat up properly always lights the first time. All the burners work fine. but when it comes time to restart the oven to maintain temp. i hear a click but it will not light. I am guessing it could be the control board? but i dont know which one. Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks!
Answer Nate, You need to check the ignitor 9758079. If you have a clamp on ammeter TJCL1100, this is an easy task. Clip it onto one wire to the ignitor and look for 3.2 to 3.6 amps. If it's below 3.2, you will need to replace the ignitor. If not, you will need to replace the burner 9758078 and the safety valve W10293048. If you don't have a clamp on amp meter, you can either "eyeball" it or use an amp meter in series with the ignitor to get a proper reading. The first method,(eyeballing), is done by noting the color of the ignitor at its' hottest. If it's red, it's not hot enough. If it's orange, it's close. If it's almost white hot, the issue will not be the ignitor, but the bake burner and safety valve.
What's the life espectancy of the igniter? and how can I know when is bad.
Answer David, Due to the fragile nature of the igniter assembly, there isn't a "life expactancy" on an igniter. It's really dependant on usage, proper operation and cleaning. The easiest way to test an igniter is to use a "clamp on" ammeter, clamp the "jaws" around one of the igniter wires, select a bake cycle and temperature, in 60 to 90 seconds, the meter should indicate an amperage draw of 3.2 to 3.6 amps if it working properly. You can also test the igniter using a multi meter. Place the meter test probes across the two igniter wires, the meter should indicate a resistance of 85 to 95 ohms, if the igniter is in tact, an "open" circuit (infinite resistance) would indicate a failed igniter.
Neither the broil burner or the bake burner turns on. The top burners work just fine, you hear the clicking noise but no sparks come out. When using a flame the burner does light up. Is it possible that both top and biottom ignitors went bad in the same time( altough I am told by my in laws that they never used the feature) -so dont know it ever worked. I suspect there might be more than just the ignitor not sparking.
Answer Hello Marius,
You should first check the Spark module. The spark module will deliver spark to all parts of unit. You can test on the spark module, Connector J1 pin 7 to pin 4 , pin 6 to pin 4 and pin 9 to pin 4 for 120 vac on each location. If you are getting 120 vac then your have a bad spark module. You cannot test the board to the ignitors because the voltage is too high. You can test each ignitor for continuity but not power. On the bake and broil you can test across the pins on the safety valve for resistance. You should have 216 ohms from bake (Red) to common (orange) and broil (Blue) to common (orange). You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
We've been having an issue with the gas oven not lighting - gas would flow, you could hear the igniter clicking, but the gas would not ignite. Removing the floor of the oven, I could see that there wasn't any spark. The range top worked fine as did the broiler.
The problem was intermittent and rare but suddenly got much worse. I replaced the igniter (part no. 9758079) and everything worked fine for about 2 weeks. Now, the oven almost never lights (broiler and range still okay).
At this point, after doing some more reading, I believe the problem is a) a bad ground, b) a bad spark module (part no. W10331686), or c) a faulty control board. My question is how do I determine which is the likely culprit? I'm comfortable using a mutlimeter but am not sure where inside the oven I should attaching the leads to verify the ground for the igniter or to check the floating voltage. And I haven't yet found a guide on how to test the spark module.
Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Answer Pete, You will need to check the resistance of the gas valve coils W10293048, the DC voltage at the valve from the DSI module W10331686 and check the oven burner tube for dirty or clogged ports. You'll need to get access to a multi meter TJMA-DM1 to test the circuits and voltages. Here's the test information; "First thing, check and make sure the power cord is attached to a properly polarized and grounded 120 VAC outlet. A proper ground is very important for the range to operate properly. Then you'll need to make several tests at the gas distribution valve. At the valve body terminals, with the wires labeled and remove from the middle terminal to each of the outer terminals, you should read 215 ohms resistance. With the wires reconnected, when you select the bake cycle, you should have a reading of 8 to 18 VDC across the red and orange wires. When you make a broil selection you should have the same 8 to 18 VDC,across the orange and blue wires. If all checks are proper(within 10%) replace the oven bake burner and or igniter."
Oven lights but will not stay lit. Broiler works fine.
Answer Hello Kyle,
You would also want to check your gas valve coils to unsure that they are not bad. You should have 216 ohms resistance from broil to common and from bake to common. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
I have a GS563LXSS-1 gas range, is a whirlpool gold accubake Craig: when i put it to bake the ignitor lights up the flame shoots down the oven rail and then kicks off.
Answer Craig, If there are no issues with the top burners, you'll need to concentrate on the DSI spark module circuit(s) W10331686, and the oven gas distribution valve W10293048. Here's some help. " First thing, check and make sure the power cord is attached to a properly polarized and grounded 120 VAC outlet. A proper ground is very important for the range to operate properly. Then you'll need to make several tests at the gas distribution valve. You'll need a multi meter to test voltage and resistances. At the valve body terminals, with the wires labeled and removed from the middle terminal to each of the outer terminals, you should read 215 ohms resistance. With the wires reconnected, when you select the bake cycle, you should have a reading of 8 to 18 VDC across the red and orange wires. When you make a broil selection you should have the same 8 to 18 VDC,across the orange and blue wires." If all's OK, check the end of the igniter for damage or distortion Check and clean the venturi openings across the burner the bottom of the burner tube, and replace the DSI spark module.