My refrigerator is not cooling the freezer has defrosted it make a buzzing sound. The fans are running could it be a relay or is it the compressor. I think the compresssor is running.
Answer Hello Ethan,
If the relay has failed then the compressor would not run. You will want to double check to make sure that the compressor is running. If not then pull relay off and shake. If the relay rattles then the relay is faulty and you would need to replace.
My fridge will not cycle on and off. Stays running even if I turn it down to 1. Fridge part is almost freezing.
Answer Hello Running. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the thermostat 2325701 is bad and will need to be replaced on the unit.
refrigerator unplugged for 8 months came home lights inside doors come on fan near compressor is on and nothing else only sound of fan next to compressor
Answer G, You may be on track, The compressor, condenser fan and evaporator fan(in the freezer compartment) all use the same power source, when one is running, all three components should be running. You'll need to check for 120 VAC to chassis ground, on the red wire attached to the overload 4387913 If the voltage is present you'll need to test the compressor windings with a multimeter and replace the overload / relay assembly. If no voltage is present, you'll need to check and find where the red wire is broken or loose.
My refrigerator keeps running. It does not shut off. At first, it did not cool, now its gets close to freezing, (35°F). I unplugged it and when I plugged it back in, it runs again. I believe it is the run capacitor but I'm not sure.
Answer Hello Dorothy,
To begin with, I don't believe the run capacitor can be the issue because the unit would not achieve 35°F as you stated it does. The compressor would not run long enough to get that cool.
First thing to do is clean the condenser coils if there's any lint on them and make sure the unit is pulled away from the wall so the coils are at least 3 inches from the wall. This provides air circulation which is necessary for proper operation of a sealed system. You see, the unit does not make cold, but it removes heat. The heat it removes is carried to the condenser coils where it is dissipated back into the room.
The next thing to check is the freezer fan 2315539. If it's running, note whether the back wall of the freezer has a frost build-up on it. If it does, you have a defrost issue. If this is the case, you probably have a bad defrost thermostat W10225581. The defrost timer, which is electronic on this model 4388931, and the defrost heater 2263749, are the only other two components in the defrost circuit.
If there is no frost build-up on the back wall of the freezer, you need to remove the back wall of the freezer to check the frost pattern. If there is only an ice ball on the top left, (where the freon lines come into the freezer compartment), you either have an inefficient compressor, a sealed system restriction, or a freon loss. This means the unit is not financially feasible to repair. (The repair will cost as much if not more than the replacement cost of the unit).
If at any point, you have more questions or are not sure of how to interpret the diagnosis, please feel free to re-post and we will assist you further.
Everything in frig froze (think b/c the door was left open a crack). Once we thawed frig, cleaned it, and turned thermostat back to #4, everything froze again. We repeated above steps, but tried lowest and highest thermostat settings (1 & 7 - just to be sure that we weren't getting them confused as to highest & lowest) and everything froze each time. Today I repeated above steps but pulled frig out, cleaned condenser coils and all area around, plugged back in, set thermostat to #4 position and am giving it 48 hrs. to re-set itself with nothing in it (this is what the manual says to do). Any ideas-other than the thermostat sensor not working? Thanks so much!
Answer Mike, You're on track, Now that everything is cleaned up and the door is closed and sealing all the way around, and the compartments are empty, you want to use an accurate thermometer in a cup of water and check for a temperature in the mid 30 dgr. range(38 to 40 dgrs. reccomended) after the 48 hour run time. If any adjustments are made you need to wait 24 hours, before doing another adjustment. If the problem persists, then replace the control. Thanks and Good Luck