Our dishes keep coming out with a distinct cloudy film and small food debris in and on dishes. We get debris inside cups that are upside down in the rack. We have checked and cleaned spray arms, cleaned filter, ran vinegar and changed rinse agents. Could it be the impeller or something with the pump?
Answer Hello Emeu,
This will most likely be a heating circuit issue. There is the possibility that there is a drain issue but this is normally obvious at the end of the cycle since water will remain in the bottom of the unit. You can run the field service test to pull the fault codes. This procedure is laid out on the tech sheet, which is usually found behind the kick panel. If you cannot locate it you can let us know and we will get a copy to you as quickly as possible.
My Amana dishwasher is quiet until the rinse cycle. Immediately before the jets spray (which is every several seconds) and loud, rurring/humming noise occurs. As stated, all the other cycles are quiet. Any suggestions?
Answer Phil, If this only occurs during the rinse cycle, you'll need to check and make sure the dishwasher is draining properly between cycles and the detergent is not foaming or sudsing. Make sure the dishwasher is filling to the proper water level in the rinse cycle( should be touching the bottom of the heater element(at the least) and make sure the rinse agent is not "foaming" as well. These new high efficiency pumps, do not react well to suds,foam, or air in the system and can make noise. You may want to try cleaning the dishwasher with Glisten TJ129 or Affresh W10282479 Dishwasher Cleaner, to remove any possible chemical build up inside the dishwasher tub and components
Part # 99002071 is no longer avail for turbidity sensor. How do I get one?
Answer Hello Ronkut! Unfortunately, the turbidity sensor part number 99002071 (our part number 99002071) discontinued with no further replacements or cross references available and our company is unaware of any other available sources. Sorry about that!
I ran auto diagnostic test and it came up #6 Turbidity sensor.
Answer Hello Ronkut. If the sensor is testing bad, you will need to replace the sensor 99002650.
Have a Maytag quiet series 300 that is baffling. Originally, washer would fill then start up with three short runs from the motor and totally shut off. We Put a new circuit board in it and it ran fine for about 20 days or so and then went back to doing the same thing. We could not run test on the control panel and the lights were doing funky thins so they said we needed a touch panel. Put that in and no go (Same thing)but we were able to run the test to get a 'Motor - High Current' error. Read all the horror stories about the motor being bad with this error but I thought I would swap out the old / originl circuit board as a last ditch effort. Well it started and stayed running on the original board we thought was bad. It runs but seems a little off its normal game (like when your car has a slight miss)but is is possible the new board went bad and or is there something else going on that I may be overlooking? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Answer Aaron, The "high current" error can be caused by several conditions, low water level, detergent, rinse aid "foaming" it's not necessarily a motor issue. You may want to run some dishwasher cleaner through the unit W10282479 to clean out any build up or deposits. Check that the dishwasher is filling properly (start the dishwasher and allow it to run 3 to 5 minutes, unlatch and open the door , the water level should be 1/2 way up to coverring the heater element, if it's filling proper. You most likely had a faulty touchpad assembly, and you may have installed the incorrect new control board, and it could have been faulty, as well. Once you doo the other checks and clean out the dishwasher, you'll probably be fine. Thanks
Like Bill above, I have no power to the dishwasher. When I do the service test (pressing the heavy wash button 5 times), the rinse only LED lights up. The service manual says that means the turbidity sensor is faulty, but would that cause the machine not to power up?
Answer Hi Bob. Quickly and firstly,.. Is the sink water filling the unit reaching at least 120° as you are loading the dishwasher? Have you ever used dishwasher magic monthly part # TJ104 to insure proper performance levels ? In the lower kick plate there is a field service tech. sheet. It will be advantageous to find the supplied tech sheet inside the cabinet to aid you in the diagnosis. It allows you to put the unit in a diagnostic mode which brings up fault codes and tells you which circuit needs assistance. Use a volt/ohm meter part # TJMA-DM1 to assist you in your diagnostics. As the sheet suggest to remove the turbidity sensor connections at the control boar and measure the wire connector at J5 pins 1 orange and 3 red for 10k ohms at 77°. The sensor is part # 99002650 , if it does not read +/- 5% of this value replace it. It is located under the tub close to the motor to sense the inner sump cleanliness and the temperatures. You will also need the o-ring part # 99002651. User a very little of liquid dish soap onto the o-ring while installing it to help seal it. Also while you are at the control board , find the Measure resistance from ST1 Red/Black (Heater) to ST11 Whit (Common) for 16 O ohms resistance.(This value assumes the high limit thermostat is closed). The heater is part # W10283681. The thermostat is part # 99002633. The technical jargon will be explained on the tech sheet . Thank You.
Water cold, replaced heating element. This solved the cold water problem, however, Sanitized lite did no come on even though button pressed. I replaced control board. Still no Sanitied lite, even though very hot water. When set for Light Wash Cycle, operates like it was set for Heavy Wash. Auto cycle does not correspond to operation description. Selected cycles do no function as described, no Sanitized lite, no dry dishes although clean. Frustratiing! Can this be fixed???
Answer Chas, The "sanitized" light will not luminate at the end of the cycle unless the water temperature actually reaches 154 to 160 dgrs.F. This may help explain it better ": Temperature Options (Available on select models) : If the Sanitize option is available for a given cycle, it forces a 140°F temp check at the end of the main wash for the Light Wash , a 154°F temp check prior to the rinse aid dispense in the final rinse, and adds 5 minutes unheated circulation prior to rinse aid dispense. : If the 160 dgr.Option is available for a given cycle, it forces a 160°F temp check prior to the rinse aid dispense in the final rinse. Notes 1. All times are approximate. 2. Temperature checks force a maximum 20 minute heating delay to reach the desired temperature. 3. The cycle definition gives the minimum and maximum possible cycle lengths. Actual cycle length and executed cycle functions will vary based on the sensor input. 4. Fill length varies between different models." You may want to check the turbidity sensor for deposits or debris, or may want to replace it if you wish. But the issue is most likely a water temperature issue or mis understanding of the control operation and cycle selections. Thanks and Good Luck