The automatic dry side does not work at all. the timed dry does work. that is problem one.. what part(s) do I need? Secondly, the noise eminating from the dryer sends us out of the house. I am going to assume it is the pulley wheel, idler? and as long as I am there replace the belt. do I have to take the drum out of the front as on the video or can I change the belt while the back is off and can see the pulley wheel and where things are to go? I am not tall and arms won't reach blindly as this is my first attempt
Answer Hello Lorraine,
The belt will have to be changed from the front of the unit. If you could re-post with an e-mail address, I can send you some illustrated instructions and troubleshooting instructions. Also, if the unit does not work on the automatic cycles but does on the timed dry cycles, the issue is going to be a clogged or crimped exhaust duct in the home. To prove this, disconnect the duct from the rear of the dryer and turn the unit on an automatic cycle. In 10 minutes you will see that the timer has advanced.
I get the code PF on my dryer. Now the dryer will not start. What might be or is the problem?
Answer Hello Michael, PF is a power failure. You will have to diagnose which component is faulty. You might want to make sure that both legs on the breaker box are turned on before you dig into the unit. You will be receiving an email with further troubleshooting help. Thanks!
Where does the end connectors go for part number 3406653 on a Kenmore HE3 dryer? Would someone provide a picture please? Thanks so much!
The 2 loose wires will connect to the sensor bars that are on the filter housing. The bars can be seen on the inside front of the drum where the air would flow through.
The dryer is drying the clothes way too hot and the dryer is not turning off when the clothes is dry. The dryer continues to run and the clothes gets extremely hot. What could be the problem? What do I need to purchase to fix this? Thank you.
With the unit not shutting off when it completes the cycle you will want to test the sensor to make sure that it is good and if it is then you would need to replace the control board as it would be the most likely cause of failure.
My dryer works fine when you put it on manual time setting. When we use the automatic settings it will not shut off when time is up and resets to original time and continues to run. I'm thinking its a sensor. Parts list have both a Harness, Sensor and a Harness Moisture Sensor. Is this something that is easy to replace or do I need a pro.
It does sound like the issue would be in the sensor. What you will want to do first is to try to clean the sensor bars with rubbing alcohol to get any fabric softner residue off of them. Once this is done then run a load and see if it continues to do the same thing. If so then you will want to check the harness to make sure that there is not an issue with the wiring. To check this you can pull the main top off and the lower access panel. Look up from the bottom to see if you can see any type of damage at the connection for the sensor bars or to the wiring and then check at the main board for the same.
I have a code F22.
Answer Hello Buddy. Exhaust
Thermistor Open. The machine control electronics monitors the exhaust temperature using the
exhaust thermistor, and cycles the heater relay on and off to maintain the
Begin with an empty dryer and a clean lint screen.
1. Plug in dryer or reconnect power.
2. Start the Timed Dry cycle.
3. If after 60 seconds, F-22 or F-23 flashes in the display and the dryer shuts
off, the thermistor or wire harness is either open or shorted. ? Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
? Check wire connections at the machine control electronics and
thermistor. See Accessing & Removing the Electronic Assemblies on
page 13, and for thermistor location see figure 10.
? If wire connections are OK, check the exhaust thermistor resistance per
4. If F-22 or F-23 does not flash in the display, the connections to the
thermistor are good. Therefore, check the exhaust temperature value at any
or all of the temperature levels in question, using the Timed Dry cycle, and
the following process:
Hold a glass bulb thermometer capable of reading from 32° to 82°C (90° to
180°F) in the center of the exhaust outlet. * The measured overshoot using the glass bulb thermometer in the exhaust
outlet can be 17°C (30°F) higher.
5. If the exhaust temperature is not within specified limits, or you have come
here from step 3, remove the P14 connector, then measure the resistance
between P14-3 (red-white wire) and P14-6 (red-white wire) at the
connector. See figure 16, page 14 for connector location; and Accessing &
Removing the Electronic Assemblies, page 13.
? If the resistance is OK, check P14-3 and P14-6 to machine ground.
? If resistance is greater than 0 (zero), replace wiring harness.
NOTE: All thermistor resistance measurements must be made while dryer is
unplugged or disconnected from power.