The washer will agitate, but will not spin. The thrust bearing kit was replaced. The white plastic collar and the roller bearing was completely shot, the plastic collar was completely ground up and gone. However, it will still not spin out after the new thrust bearing was installed. I tried both the thin and thick washers separately, but still won't work. Trying to figure out if its the brake or the transmission. Advice on how to do that?
When it's in the spin cycle the shaft going up to the transmission spins freely, but the tub does not. At the very initial engagement of the spin cycle, the tub will spin around about an inch or so, then it seizes up. Can rotate it all by hand while it's in the spin cycle. No unusal noise or burning smell. What else can I do to troubleshoot it without tearing into the brake (don't have the special tool)?
Might be unrelated, but the first thing that went wrong was that the tub would not stop filling and it was leaking. Discovered that the small hose on the back of the tub about half way up that goes to the pressure switch had come off the tub. Fixed that. Is it possible that transmission seized up suddenly throwing the tub sideways pulling this hose off and then tore up the thrust bearing?
It is very unlikely that the transmission seized up causing the pressure hose to pop off. The tub getting off balance will cause the tube to pop off. As for the issue with the tub not spinning. The most common cause has already been corrected by replacing the thrust bearing. What you will want to check is if you turn the thrust bearing counter clockwise for the spin, you should see the brake lift. If the brake does not lift then the transmission is the most likely cause for the issue.
I removed front panel and found 1 centering spring had worn out and broke, down by the base of washer. The other 5 seem in good shape and I cannot see anything else that looks faulty or broken. Should I replace all 6 springs, and may as well replace belt since washer is about 5-6 years old. Anything else I should look at or look for? The spring just looks like it wore through until it snapped. Thank You
Answer Hello Erick,
Since the springs 21001598 have to apply equal pressure to hold the tub assembly centered, you will not be able to get a satisfactory result from replacing only one spring. The other thing to look for is the presence of any oil around the "dome" since this will cause erratic movements of the tub assembly during the high speed spin. The presence of oil is the indication of a bad lip seal 207843 in the transmission.
Washer will fill, then start to agitate then makes a sound like hitting the brakes, then buzzes
Answer Hello Ken. Listen and see if the unit roars during the spin cycle. If so, you have a bearing issue with the unit. If there is no roar, then you need to check and see if the motor is overheating. If so, you will need to order and replace the motor on the unit.
My washer drum bangs against the washer wall. I have replaced the suspension springs, but at times it continues to act like it is unbalanced. Why are there to pins in a plastice tube attached to the washer frame?
Answer Hello Jeff. Did you check all 4 springs? The large in the back and the 3 on the floater plate. As for the pins, the are only for shipping and do not affect the balance of the unit. You need to make sure the floater plate is centered on the unit as well.
I hear a whining sound. Motor is not secured. Do I need a suspension spring to hold motor in place to the plate? What secures the plate to the frame of bottom?
Answer Hello Barbara,
The motor is attached to a plate which is attached to the base of unit. The motor is supposed to move forward and backward. There is a spring that should be on the motor attached to the plate. If the unit is making a whining noise during agitation then I would suspect the brake making the noise or something in the pump or bearing on pump going bad. If it is making noise during the spin I would suspect that the tub bearing is going bad or the pump bearing going out or something clogged in the pump.
Why did my washer stop spinning? But it drains the water. What part will I need to purchase?
Answer Hello Germaine. You will need to check and see if the thrust bearing kit 12002213 is bad on the unit. Manually rotate the drive pulley in a slow
counterclockwise direction until the brake starts to
release and the transmission begins to turn. Position the “Arrow Reference” midway between
the “Min Pulley Hub Reference and the “Max
Pulley Hub Reference” markers located on the
Pulley. If the position of the Cam Arrow to the Pulley Hub is
not within these parameters, or brake does not release, replace the kit.
Can you tell me all the parts that might be needed for a stability issue? And is there a kit? Or is each part sold seperatly.
Answer Mike, there are no "kits" for your issue, So, you want to start at the base 22003390 and rear locking legs, make sure the base, is not cracked twisted bent or "over flexxing" in any direction, check and make sure the rear legs lock in place and level or install a stationary leg kit 12001577. Next is the "Snubber" 21002026 I'm sure it's well worn by now, especially if you find a large amount of "plastic" shavings. Then the suspension springs 21001598 you'll need six(6).As an accessory, you coould install 12001736 which will reduce vibration noise in the cabinetry by "stiffenning" things up. You are sure there is no vibration or movement in your floor or flooring? Drop us a line if you need more assistance. Thanks and Good Luck
The drum on my washing machine tilts back toward the wall. It works fine but shouldn't the tub be level? When I pull the tub back toward the front of the machine and it becomes level it falls backward again when I turn it loose. Are there springs to keep the tub level?
Answer Hello Phil. The tub on all front load machines are tilted towards the wall so the water won't be against the door seal as much. The front of the unit is generally supported by springs while the rear is normally supported by struts, (similar to shocks). The tub is supposed to rock on its' mountings so the suspension can properly absorb the vibration of an out-of-balance load. Without this "slack" the machine would stomp its' feet. Hope this was helpful to you!
The tub on my Maytag appears to be loose. Makes loud banging sound if slightly off balance on spin cycle. Do I just need to replace suspension springs and how difficult is it to get to them?
Answer Dan, Before you order parts, remove the front panel and check several other components and the base for deterioration and wear and tear. "1. Disconnect power to the washer. 2 Insert a thin blade tool(putty knife) between the front panel and the top cover assembly, approximately three(3) inches in from each corner. While lifting up on the top cover assembly, press the tool against the wire retainer clips, one side at a time to disengage them. Lift the top up to a stationary position. 3. Remove the two 5/16 " hex/cross head screws securing the front panel to the upper front corner braces of the cabinet. 4. Move top edge of front panel away from cabinet while lifting. This will disengage the bottom of the front panel from base clips." You will need to check "plastic" shavings accumulated on the base of the washer as well as grease or oil. Some white powder is normal(like baby powder) but if there are shavings, that indicates a worn snubber and it will need to be replaced. Check the suspension springs, I wouldn't expect any of them to be stretched or out of configuration, but there's a possibility. any grease or oil near or under the plastic snubber, would most likely cause to suspension to "over rotate" and create your issue. And you will need to check for a weak or cracked base panel, especially near the motor mount area. Good Luck and Thanks