I have a Maytag model#MDBH950, the chopper shaft stripped out and replaced. impeller looks good,but it fills, then starts, but then the pump starts to cavatate and no water comes out of spray arms, water fill height looks ok can't find the problem.got any sugestions.
P.S.When it starts it works for about 3 or 4 seconds then the pump starts to cavatate and no water from arms?
Answer Ken, Presumably you installed the motor seal kit 6-919539 with the metal chopper shafts and installed it properly. The correct water level in that style dishwasher should partially submerge the heater element in the bottom of the tub, after a 3 to 5 minute fill and wash. If less than that, there's not enough water in the system, and the pump will cavitate. If the water level is in range then you'll need to check your detergent and rinse agent for "sudsing" or foaming, Bubbles in the water from the detergent or rinse agent will make the pump cavitate as well.
The water level is coming over the inlet side tub. I have check the float switch for function. It seems to be working ie. meter stops beeping when I lift the float. What am I missing? Could it be an intermitent problem with the float switch? I have semihard water with a lot of scale in my tub. Please help if you can. Thanks
Answer Hi Reel. Remove the lower kick panel to see if the float switch and the float stem itself are miscued. If the switch side cover is unhooked from its catches, it will misaligned the float stem not allowing it to work in correspondence with the water level. Remove the float from the tub and see if the soap/food/scum is built up in the hole and stopping smooth operations. The float is part # W10202535. The float switch is also included. Make sure all switch connections are clean and tight. Thank You.
My question about the heater element is this. If the black coating has a very slight nick in it to expose the very outer part of the metal element tube, will that cause a shorting issue? My understanding that these types of elements are made with a nickel-chrome coil that is encapsulated in a ceramic material. And then that is inserted into a metal tubing. So if I measure the impedance from the exposed tubing to either element electrical contact, will I see a low impedance or is the internal coil isolated from the metal tubing? Thanks.
Answer Hi DGL. The heating element for your model # MDB8750a... is part # W10283681. When you use ohm meter beep scale (which measures 50-ohms and under) And put one lead to the terminal and the other to the element mount metal or the outer sheathing. If you instantly get a beep then it designates the element is shorted. Using the ohm scale the normal ohms reading is 22- ohms +/- 10% . If it is out of this range replace it. Impedance is a different term and generally does not apply here. And no, in case of a short the element may initially draw excessive amps and open the thermostat wired in series before the heating element for safety reasons. Look at the supply wiring in the junction box. If it is not polarity correct then it may cause a issue of staying on. NOTE = Make sure the black wire (L-1) and the white wire (neutral) are hooked to the same machine lead wires and not reversed. Also make sure the house wiring to the units polarity is correct. If so it will not be thermally protected but is still agency compliant. Thank You.
My dishwasher is about 4 years old and its not cleaning right on top and bottom rack. Its leaving food particles on an some dishes. I replaced the filter and checked the water level. Its ok. Water temp is 98. Any suggestions wood be appreciated. Thanks.
Answer Hello Lejoy. You will need to check and see if the seal kit 6-919539 is stripped out on the motor shaft and is not turning the impeller properly. If so, you will need to replace the seal kit. Also, this will give you a chance to clean the filters and clean out the sump assembly on the unit. If the seal kit is stripped, the impeller can not pump the water properly to the upper spray arms. Hope this helps.