Oven will not heat on bake or broil.
Answer Hello JR. Test for power to the control board. If there is power there, and the board does not send power to the elements, you will need to replace the board. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Hi. The front dual burner stopped working on our stove, so, assuming it was the element, I ordered a new one. As we started to change it out, my husband discovered that a wire was loose and burned -- so it is doubtful the element was bad. He changed the element anyway, but since the wiring is different from our 14 year old stove -- I think there are extra wires now --- he wasn't sure how to hook it up. Now, when I turn on the front burner, it burns HOT only. And, if I turn on the back right burner, the front inside burner comes on too. Now what do we do? I figure we need a new Infinite Switch, but also need wiring instructions. Please help!
The proper element wiring is Double red to 1b, red to 2b, yellow goes to outside element, tan goes to inside element, single red that comes off harness with tan and yellow goes to the limiter. and Single red from surface element goes to 2b.
My indicator light stays on all the time for the surface all burners are off
If it is the surface on indicator light you then the problem would be in one of the infinite switches. You will want to check from P to L2 on each of the switches with the switches in the off position. If there is 120 vac then the switch is bad and needs to be replaced.
The burners seem to have a mind of their own when it comes to temperature control. Does that me I need to replace the burner control switches? If so how do I get to the switches?
Answer Don, Your first check should be at the elements and receptacles on the cooktop. Turn power off, remove the elements and drip panes and check the recepatcle openings, and end of the element terminals for damage and arc marks, and make sure the elements snap and lock in place tightly when inserted in the receptacle. To access the burner switches, you'll need to remove the burner knobs and bezels, raise the cooktop, use a putty knife to press in on the two spring clips and lift up on the corner of the cooktop, use a prop rod to hold the top up while working on the switches.
When I turn on the oven the preheat light turns on then quickly off and the bottom heating element wont heat the oven at all. The broiler works. I replaced the bottom heating element but it is still doing the same thing.
Answer Hello Eben,
You should test the bake circuit of unit. First thing to do, using multi-meter check for line voltage of 120vac across L1 and Bake on control board. If there is voltage then you would need to replace Control 12001628. If there is no voltage then you would want to check the bake element with turned on for 240vac. If no voltage then you will want to check the wiring to the element. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Nothing will turn on. F11 code came up and we ordered new sensors, installed, according to control panel they should be working but no heat in elements or change in temperature. The burners on top still won't work either. Is there fuses or something I should look at?
Answer Hello Wendy,
The F-11 fault code is telling you that the control is sensing a stuck key on the control panel 12001661. Since the surface and bake compartment circuits are completely separate after the terminal block, I would also check the 240Vac double breaker in the breaker box. If no problems are found there, I would next unplug the unit and inspect the power cord prongs that plug into the receptacle for burned spots. A burned spot is the indication that the receptacle is loose and will need to be replaced to prevent a fire hazard. If no problems are found there, the issue has to be at the terminal block where the power cord hooks to the unit electrically.
Broiler element will not turn off.
Answer Hello Steve,
You either have a short that is providing a constant 120Vac across the element or the relay on the clock assembly 12001608 is stuck and the clock assembly will require replacement. If the element is just turning red, the unit should be checked for a short, (including the element as it can short to ground also). If the element is turning orange like it's turned all the way on, the clock assembly is at fault.