I have a Kenmore electric dryer that is about 12 yrs old or so and all the heat settings don't work, it worked on one load and on the next load nothing but cold on all the heat settings, could it be just the temp dryer switch?
Answer Patrick, The temperature switch is a good idea, but it's not the likeliest issue. If you're sure both breakers are set and locked down, and you have 220-240 VAC at the dryer terminal block, then your first check should be at the heater element 279838 check and make sure the wire is broken or shorted, especially in the insulator area(s) then check the thermal fuse 279816 and hi limit switch. If the dryer overheated for any reason, and the fuse "opened", the dryer won't heat.
SUBJECT: No heat, but all else works fine.
I have purchased and installed replacement High Limit T-stat, Cycling T-stat, and Thermal Fuse (all from appliancepartspros.com). I have checked 220 outlet, 220 fuse bank, cord attachment, all hot with no apparent signs of damage. Timer seemingly has good contacts and function. Heating Element was removed and cleaned and inspected and does not appear broken or grounded. Heating Element seems to be getting power as do the violet leads on the cycling T-stat when using a simple VAC voltage tester. No power seems to be reaching the thermal fuse, but I am not sure what is normal. It also seems no measurable voltage is passing through the temperature control switch. What should my next step be?
Answer Hello Brandon. If the thermal fuse were bad, the dryer would not run. It sounds as if the element is bad, if there is 240 volts to it, but no heat. If this is the case, you will need to order and replace the heater in the unit.
Have changed all thermostats, thermal fuse, moisture sensor, and heating element. Dryer still will not heat, any suggestions?
Answer Hello Cristy,
The starting place is the breaker box. Turn the breaker off for the dryer and then back on. If one side of a double breaker trips, the un-tripped side tends to hold the other side up so you cannot really tell if one side is tripped. Next, go to the receptacle. Unplug the unit and inspect the power cord prongs for burned spots. A burned spot is an indication that the receptacle is worn out and requires replacement. This is an important check since a poor electrical connection can very easily become a fire hazard since a point of high resistance produces heat. If this checks good, remove the terminal block cover so you can physically check for loose wires. If an issue exists in there, you can usually tell from the discoloration from the heat generated from a bad connection.
From this point, it appears that you have checked most of the components in the unit, except the centrifugal switch in the motor and the timer. These are both in the circuit and will prevent normal operation if either open the circuit.
Will not dry on regular timed dry setting,only on on automatic dry setting and that only works half the time,but clothes get dry,sometimes will have to start it over and over in this setting to dry
Answer Joe, Based on your post description, you may want to start at the timer W10185982 . The dryer should heat in both timed dry and automatic dry, At the timer, terminals C (black) and A (red) should be a "closed" circuit. on any cycle. And terminal A to chassis ground, should have 120 VAC out to the heating circuit, on any cycle except air fluff or the cool down at the end of the cycle(s)