I am still blowing the same thermal temp sensor on the dryer heating element housing after using thermal kit #AP39094224 and cycle stat #AP3131939. What else could it be?
Answer Hello David. Check and see if the heater is grounded out. Remove it and inspect it for the coils touching the metal housing. Hope this helps.
1 person found this answer helpful.
My dryer seems to be running too hot and cooking the clothes.
Answer Hello Edmond,
You either have a shorted heating element or a shorted wiring harness. If contacts in the timer were stuck, the thermostats would still cycle the element on and off. If the cycling thermostat is stuck, the unit will still cycle on the high limit but will seem hotter than usual.
My dryer is heating but is not completely getting the clothes dry. I cleaned out the unit completely and it still isn't like it used to be. I did check the voltage and i am getting a full 240. Would a heating element go out slowly or is it something else? Thanks, Neil
The first thing to always check with a non drying issue and the unit heating would be the dryer venting. Check the venting from the blower wheel to the outside of the home for restrictions. You can also try to pull the vent off the back of the dryer for 1 cycle and see if the drying improves and this will tell you for sure whether there is a vent restriction.
My Whirlpool dryer wasn't working so I went on the internet to find out what was wrong. I checked and cleaned the vent and then the checked all the sensors. I found out that the thermal cut-off was no good using a multi-meter. I ordered the replacement kit for my dryer and replaced both thermal and hi-limit sensors and the dryer worked fine for about 3 loads of laundry. I checked the sensors and the new thermal cut-off tripped again? Could it be a bad thermal cut-off?
Answer Hello Andrew,
The only thing that will open a thermal fuse is high temperatures. In light of this fact there are only a limited amount of things that can cause them to blow. Missing seals in the unit allowing the heat to be recirculated instead of ducted out, running the dryer in a small room with the door closed, (with no louvers in the door), an excessively long exhaust duct or too many turns in it, or a clogged or crimped (less than 4 inch diameter) exhaust duct can cause this issue. Even a 2 foot section of flexible ducting be hind the unit that crimps off when the dryer is slid back against the wall can cause the issue. While a bad thermal cut-off is possible, it is not a common issue.
Dryer run's but no heat. Checked thermal fuse and heating element, both ok. What else should I check?
Answer Hello Joseph! Make sure that the dryer has a full 240v going to it. The unit can run on 120v but it needs a full 240v for it to heat. Also make sure the venting to the unit and to the home is not kinked or clogged. If the voltage and venting is ok you'll need to check the thermostats 279769 and 694674, they should read closed. Hope this helps you. Thanks.
My wire leads to the heating element are completely burned off what would be the problem?
Answer Arnie, There are several possibilities, the more common being : Low voltage to the dryer(under a load), loose connections at the terminal block and or the heater circuit components. A restricted or extensive vent length or overloading can cause the heater to cycle too often, and produce a temperature of 200 + dgrs. in the drum, causing the high amperage draw and wires to become soft and brittle, then burn.