My broil element stays red ,does the thermal fuse Control this.
The thermal fuse would not control the element. The element is controlled by the control board and if it is staying on all the time then the control board would be the issue and need to be replaced.
Bake setting very slow to heat takes a couple hours just to get 250 and does not get higher than that.
Broil appears to be working ok.
Answer Hello Schneur. It sounds like either the bake element is bad, or the wiring coming to the element is bad or the control. You can test the element. It should read closed for continuity. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Our Whirlpool double oven works fine, however we can't trun it off once it's done...have to trun it off from the breaker panel? The control panel was replaced 2.5 years ago. Could it be a thermol fuse or the thermostats?
Answer Jack, It's not likely a thermal fuse or thermostat, where it a fuse, the elements would not heat or the control would be "dead" / no display or program. Evidently the keypad assembly has failed and will need to be repalced 8300437 ( the biscuit colored panel has been substituted to a black panel, by the manufacturer).
It seems that every time I clean the lower oven the thermostate (9759242) opens. I just ordered another one form you. Do you know the heat setting on this thermostat and is there another one that I can use that may have a slightly higher setting.
Unfortunately there is not a higher temp thermal fuse for the unit. The unit opens at 221 degrees plus or minus 7.2. Per the tech sheet the thermal that you are installing is the incorrect thermal fuse and you would need part number 8304452. Check the one you receive and as long as it is 221 then it should work. If lower then get correct fuse.
I have a glass top but stop working do not warm up? Just the clock and oven light work?
Answer Hello Christian. You need to check and see if the breaker or the terminal block on the unit is bad and you only have 120 volts coming to the unit. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html