All electric stove/oven. Searched all over for a model no., none found. Only an old adhesive-backed paper on back side with wiring schematic diagram dated 1963, with model #'s: 31-1147 (on top), 31-2849 (on bottom). Under the stove top, on top of and at the rear are three "Eagle" brand, blue-colored, 15A non tamp Type-S threaded "plastic" type thermal fuses (warmer fuse, timed fuse and non-timed fuse I believe), all removed, checked, only one rattles when shook, the others do not.
Stove top's four heating elements do not come on when knobs turned on, neither does the oven or warming element above the stove top, although the stove light and oven light do.
What could cause this and how to fix it?
With none of the elements working you will want to check to make sure that there is 240 vac getting to the unit. Without the model number there is no way for us to be able to assist with your question properly but power supply is the first thing to check.
Could a thermal fuse be the problem with my Maytag electric range model MEP5770AAW. Service technicians have ruled out control panel, heating elements, and sensors. Everything else works perfectly, but oven heat will come on.
With both the bake and broil not working but the top working then this issue would more likely be the control board. The only other thing that it could be would be the wiring to both elements. This unit does not have a thermal fuse that would blow causing the issue and with the top operating then the unit has 240 vac getting to it.
My Kitchen Aid Architect Series II Electric Range will not heat up on the baking mode or broil mode. How can I fix it myself? Thank You
Answer Hello Little Blue Eyes,
If you have verified that 240Vac is getting to the oven, (flip the breaker off and back on to the unit to ensure the breaker has not tripped), you will need to check the two over temperature thermostats 9759242, and 341196 on the rear of the unit. The only other thing that could cause both elements to fail at the same time is a problem with the wiring harness.
This will be the 4th time I have replaced the Hi Limit thermal fuse. I also replaced the Blower motor last time. Whenever I clean the oven we blow this thermal fuse. What else can be wrong with the oven? Do I need to replace something else? The last time the repair man was here he told me not to use the auto clean, simply hand clean. I did not buy a self cleaning oven to hand clean it. Any suggestions?
Answer Tommie, You also need to check the oven door and door gasket. Open the oven door as far as possible, if the door goes past a 90 dgr. angle, then you will need to check and replace the door hinges and receivers. Also check and make sure the door gasket isn't damaged or allows air to enter the oven cavity. Lastly you want to check and make sure the installation is correct. Improper air flow in and around the wall oven can cause the oven to heat erratically and cause the thermal fuse to open.
After running (attempting to run) the self clean cycle, thermal fuse blew and power to oven went out. I replaced the fuse but still have no power to the oven!! And suggestions?
With the control board not coming on you will want to check the transformer for the display. The part number is 9760587 and you can test it by doing a voltage test. You will test for 120 vac at the P16 connector from pins 5 to 7 and check for 12 to 24 vdc on pins 2 to 3 of the same connection on the control board. If there is 120 vac to the transformer but no voltage out then the transformer is bad. If there is no power to the transformer then you will want to check from P19 pin 1 Black to Pin 3 White to make sure that there is 120 vac at this point. If not then check at the terminal block to make sure that there is 240 vac across the outer pins and 120 from each of the outer pins to the center terminal. If there is not correct voltage check the breaker. If there is proper voltage at the control board but no power to the transformer then the control board is faulty and would need to be replaced.