The dryer no longer heats. Do I replace the heating element or could it be something else?
Answer Hello Isis, after you disconnect power to the unit, the next thing to do is check for restricted or blocked venting. This can cause the dryer to run too hot and blow a thermal fuse 3390719 or thermostat 3391914 killing power to the element 3387747. Sometimes it's just a burnt wire but, here's a link to help you with troubleshooting. Thanks! http://www.appliancepartspros.com/repair-help/dryer-repair-help.html#electric
I'm back and the dryer cycling thermostat was replaced with no luck. Still no heat. Can you describe further what you mean by unpluging the wires from the heater and testing to see where we are losing power from? We have metered the incoming power and are getting a reading of a total of 240 volts. Do you mean disconnect the wires to the heating element and test it there. What results should we be looking for when we test? Thanks so much for your help. This is the best website ever. If we have to replace the thermal fuse, what is the best way to get to it? Do I have to remove the drum?
Answer Hello Nancy,
What the technician who answered your first question meant is that if you disconnect one wire from the heating element, you can determine which leg of voltage has been dropped,(L1 or L2). This can be invaluable information when no obvious signs of failure are present such as a burned element, wire, or open thermostat. When you use the wiring diagram provided on the appliance, (usually in the console or in a plastic bag inside the kick panel or inside the cabinet under the main top), knowing which leg has been dropped can lead the technician to the failed component. Usually, when the easily accessed components test good, the problem will turn out to be a timer or a centrifugal switch that is made in the motor assembly.
When testing like this, you should be very careful as there are electrical shock hazards around every corner. Also you should use ground as a test reference point. If you read 120Vac on the wire you disconnected to ground, test to the terminal it was removed from and there is supposed to be the other leg of 120Vac present at that point. Using this as a starting point, you can use the wiring diagram to trace the circuit back to the failed component. When you test on one side and get no voltage to ground, then go to the other side of the failed component, the voltage will disappear.
Normally if the thermal fuse is bad, the unit will not start and run even with no heat.
ordered received and installed this part and my dryer is just clicking I turn it on and it begins counting down but is not running. what else do I need to check or replace? the drum is not turning at all. When I turn the dryer on it just beeps and begins counting down.
Answer Kathy, Very good, you're on the right track, if the thermal fuse "opened" due to a temperature issue, it would open the voltage circuit to the motor and the dryer would not start and run, but would program. A faulty door switch W10201785 could create the same situation, so you may want to check it, but it's most likely a thermal fuse issue. Good Luck and Thanks
I've checked the heating element and fuse what else keeps it from heating
Answer Joe, The first thing to check, is 240 VAC at the terminal block on the back of the dryer and any possible loose or damaged wiring there. The thermal fuse you have listed, controls power to the motor, not the heater. You want to recheck the hi limit switch and thermal fuse on the heater assembly 279769 and wiring at that location, if you haven't already, then the cycling thermostat 279769. From there we're getting into a motor or a timer, but we need to check the other components first. Thanks and Good Luck
Without warning, our dryer just stopped working. It doesn't do anything. No sound, no blowing, it's just dead.
Answer Hello Tammie,
This sounds like the thermal fuse 3392519. No one like to hear this, but the exhaust needs to be checked for crimps or clogs. You see, the thermal fuse is opened by temperature, so if you just replace it, it will fail again rather quickly. The exhaust needs to be checked to make sure there is sufficient air flow to get the heat, lint, and moisture out of the unit.
The dryer drum rides on felt seals, so if there is too much back pressure built up from the ducting, it is too easy for the pressure to blow past the felt seals, and this puts the heat back into the cabinet with the thermal fuse. This will blow it again.
There is a test kit to determine if the air flow in you ducting system is sufficient. The part number is 8522199 and it's called a dryer vent test kit.
How do you access the thermal fuse on my model dryer? I found its location, but it is so far within the body of the dryer I cant get to it to unscrew or unplug the wires from the back.
Answer Hello Darrenle. 1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Open the door.
3. Push on the retaining clips located under top of
dryer on the right and left side using a flat object
such as a putty knife. 4. Slowly rotate top backwards and lean against
wall, or support with a prop rod.
5. Disconnect the door switch wire harness located
on the right side. 6. Remove the front panel/door assembly by
removing the two front cover screws at the top of
the panel inside the cabinet, and lifting upward.
7. Disconnect the moisture sensor connections. 8. Remove the lint screen.
9. Remove the lint screen housing by removing
the four screws holding the lint screen housing. 10. Remove the front bulkhead by loosening the
upper two screws and removing the lower two
screws. 11. Lower components including the thermal fuse 3390719 can be accessed at this time;
however, if the drum is to be removed, the belt
must be removed. Hope this helps.