Changed igniter (broken) still no heat could thermal fuse be problem? Checked all others on burner, seems ok
Answer Hello Bill. Test and see if your getting power to the igniter 279311. Also test the thermal fuses W10423382 and flame sensor 338906. They should read closed for continuity. Check the coils 279834 and see if they test good. You can test the coils using a multi-meter TJMA-DM1. The two prong coil will read 1,000-1,300 ohms, and the three prong coil will read 1,300-1,400 ohms across prongs 1&2, and 500-600 ohms across prongs 1&3. Hope this helps.
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Does the dryer have a swtch on tensioner pulley? When belt is broken dryer doesn't works.
Yes when the belt breaks the unit does have a broken belt switch 279782 that does not allow the unit to operate.
The dryer runs but the heat doesn't come on.
Answer Hello Isai. You will need to test the thermostats and the flame sensor and make sure they are good. They should read closed for continuity. Also, check the igniter and make sure it is getting hot enough to light the gas. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter for the testing procedures. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
The dryer no longer heats. Do I replace the heating element or could it be something else?
Answer Hello Isis, after you disconnect power to the unit, the next thing to do is check for restricted or blocked venting. This can cause the dryer to run too hot and blow a thermal fuse 3390719 or thermostat 3391914 killing power to the element 3387747. Sometimes it's just a burnt wire but, here's a link to help you with troubleshooting. Thanks! http://www.appliancepartspros.com/repair-help/dryer-repair-help.html#electric
I'm back and the dryer cycling thermostat was replaced with no luck. Still no heat. Can you describe further what you mean by unpluging the wires from the heater and testing to see where we are losing power from? We have metered the incoming power and are getting a reading of a total of 240 volts. Do you mean disconnect the wires to the heating element and test it there. What results should we be looking for when we test? Thanks so much for your help. This is the best website ever. If we have to replace the thermal fuse, what is the best way to get to it? Do I have to remove the drum?
Answer Hello Nancy,
What the technician who answered your first question meant is that if you disconnect one wire from the heating element, you can determine which leg of voltage has been dropped,(L1 or L2). This can be invaluable information when no obvious signs of failure are present such as a burned element, wire, or open thermostat. When you use the wiring diagram provided on the appliance, (usually in the console or in a plastic bag inside the kick panel or inside the cabinet under the main top), knowing which leg has been dropped can lead the technician to the failed component. Usually, when the easily accessed components test good, the problem will turn out to be a timer or a centrifugal switch that is made in the motor assembly.
When testing like this, you should be very careful as there are electrical shock hazards around every corner. Also you should use ground as a test reference point. If you read 120Vac on the wire you disconnected to ground, test to the terminal it was removed from and there is supposed to be the other leg of 120Vac present at that point. Using this as a starting point, you can use the wiring diagram to trace the circuit back to the failed component. When you test on one side and get no voltage to ground, then go to the other side of the failed component, the voltage will disappear.
Normally if the thermal fuse is bad, the unit will not start and run even with no heat.