My whirlpool quiet partner 2 is flashing the code 7. I replaced th heating element, tried a new control panel, tested the thermostat. I'm down to checking the thermister. It shows 43 ohms at room temperature. When I run under hot water the ohm reading does down steadily. From what I've read the resistance should go up under heat. With my reading going down, does this mean my thermister is bad and causing the heating error code 7?
Answer Hello Phil,
There are only 5 components in the heating circuit: the control board, the door switch, the thermistor, the heating element, and the harness. The wiring diagram should give sufficient information for troubleshooting these circuits. Be aware that resetting the clean light by doing the self-diagnostic cycle does not correct the issue and the heating element is the first suspect.
When the clean light flashes it can only mean one of two things. It can mean that the clean button is stuck and the control panel is in need of replacement or it can mean that the heating circuit has failed. The way to tell which has happened is that if the heating circuit has failed, the clean light will flash seven times with a pause and then flash seven times with a pause, etc. If the clean button is stuck there will be no pause after seven flashes. If this is the case, you need to troubleshoot the heating circuit. There are five components: the heating element, the high limit thermostat, the door switch, the control, and the wiring harness.
There should be a tech sheet behind the kick panel which will show the wiring diagram. This should enable you to shoot through the circuit with an ohm meter. If it reads open from the control board, you will need to test each component individually. It will also guide you through a self diagnostic test that is necessary to run through to clear the code so the unit can run a cycle once repaired.
The thermister you should be checking should read open until it gets up to around 145°F or so. When it reaches the high temperature it is rated for, it should open and show full contact with no resistance.
I have a burned control board. In testing the thermistor on the 200K ohms scale, this tests at 60,800 ohms. Is this too high and should I replace it? I only tested it by pulling the wires off and in place, at room temperature without the machine having run for a couple days.
Also, do I need to replace the heating element, which tested good (10.2 ohms) if I replace the control board with the latest model? (Factory says it is part # 8564543).
I sure would appreciate your help, I can't get any answers out of the Whirlpool/Kitchenaid folks.
Answer Hello Tombo,
The thermistor should read 48-52kO @ 77°F. The resistance increases at lower temperatures so, the reading you took is reading a good thermistor. If the board is burned, you should check the thermal fuse 8193762 as it may be open also. If it is and you get the replacement kit, be sure to use all of the parts because the connections that the kit replaces have been found to cause the fuse to blow from excessive current flow. You should also check the wire nuts at the power supply connection, the heating element, and the motor windings for proper resistance readings. Since the board 8564543 is burned, it will have to be replaced, but these tests should be done to prevent a repeat failure. As per the factory, this sub should only have 3 terminals. The P4(Y) terminal which was on the original control has been removed and not used on this control.
The cleaning light flashes will not do any cycle. Could it be a thermister problem?
Answer Hello Raymond. If the cleaning light is flashing 7 times, you will need to put the dishwasher into the standby state with no lights on. Then press Heated dry, Normal, Heated dry, Normal within 6 seconds. The unit should start. Let it complete and clear the code. Once the code is cleared, test the heater W10518394 and the thermostat 661566 and make sure they read closed for continuity. If not, the bad part will need to be replaced on the unit. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html