The dryer is not heating up, what part do we need to order? Don't see a heating element?
Answer Hello Ida, The model number you provided is not correct. Check and make sure you have 240 volts coming to the dryer. Check and make sure the unit is not set to Air Fluff. Also check the heater and thermostats and see if they are good. You can test these with a multi-meter TJMA-DM1. They should read closed for continuity. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
replaced element, thermistor, thermostats and dryer still over heats element never cycles comes on and never shuts off on all settings Please help
Answer Scoutman, Basically Your description indicates one of two possible issues, There is not enough voltage to the heater element, This reduces the amount of heat produced, and the thermostats won't cycle. A shorted eelement or wire to the element, this would allow the voltage to circulate through the circuit, and because of the short to chassis ground, the heater element, will not cycle off when the temperature is reached and the thermostat opens. You'll need to check and make sure you have 220 to 240 VAC across the terminals of the heater element when the dryer is heating. Voltage needs to be a minimum of 210 VAC, or the dryer will not heat properly. Also check and make sure he line cord and terminal block wiring is correct, and tight and 220 to 240 VAC across the outside terminals of the block. Good Luck and Thanks
Thermistor reads 00.7 at room temp. Would this cause overheating?
Answer Hi. Yes the thermister part # 35001191 can cause over heating because of the improper tolerances given. At room temperature of 77° it should read 10K ohms. Thank You.
What is an acceptable ohm range for the thermistor? I am getting almost 12,000 ohms at room temp. Also what kind of voltage should I be getting at the thermistor while the dryer is running?
Answer Hello Bryan. According to the manufacture, the thermistor 35001191 should read around 10k at 77°. There is no voltage at the thermisotr. It is used to send an ohms reading to the contorl board, not voltage.
The gas dryer ignites with front off and no venting (fooled the door switch). It stays on for 30 seconds and turns off. Checked Hi limit, and all sensors and coils. They are all within specifications. Could this be a weak hi-limit thermostat?
Answer Hello Mike,
This is definitely a coil or safety valve issue. I would probably replace the coils 279834 first in case one is breaking down under load. The coils are cheaper that the safety valve. If this doesn't correct it, it will be the safety valve 35001190 that corrects the issue.
Would partial failure of this item allow the dryer coil to overheat and burnout the coil thermal fuse ? I have new duct dryer vent ductwork and no blockage in the flexable alum duct. I have replace the thermal fuse and regained use of my dryer but now it is blow again. I have read the resistance and it is close but not at the required so I am wondering if there may be further degridation of the control when it heats up.
Answer Hi Steve. It sounds like the thermistor which will ohm out to 10,000 ohms cold +/- 10 %. It is part # 35001191. What can be sticking on to allow the overheat is a concern. Is the vent kinked when pushed back in ? Look at it in position. Is there a bad blower wheel that is scraping and needs changed part # 35001220. The air flow movement is a very tightly needed calibration. The heater relays have been known to stick shut and allow over heat part # 35001153. Use the tech. sheet supplied inside the unit to see if there are any diagnostic codes showing. It has been my estimation the control board relay is more the issue. If you did had a restricted vent right before the vent cleaning and the motor is clogged , then the heater expansion has already taken place for so long that it only now takes a little heat to relax it enough to over heat and short out. Element part # 35001247. Thank You.