Hi! My Amana NED 7200TW electric dryer won't heat up. I already changed the heating element, thermostat and thermal fuse and still won't heat up. Is there another thermostat or part that I need to change? I changed everything because I don't have a multimeter before, but I do now. Please advise. Thanks.
Answer Hello Rey. You need to test and see where you losing power at. Either the timer or the motor may be a fault. You start at the heater and unplug the wires to it. The being extremely careful as your testing live power, you start the unit and trace each wire to see where you losing voltage. You will replace the part that is bad on the unit. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
My dryer won't come on. There is power and everything looks fine. There are not errors on the control panel. When I hit start it makes a "click" noise and then does nothing. The Timer display still counts down as if it was working fine.
You will want to check the door switch to make sure that the switch is good. Check to make sure that there is power getting to the motor and if there is no power to the motor then you will need to check to see if thermal fuse is good. If the thermal fuse reads open then replace the fuse if closed then the control is most likely at fault
I have a Maytag Neptune that heats only to 130 degrees on timed and sensor modes. I have changed the gas coils, removed the vent and blower housing and cleaned, and am I'm trying it without the duct. The flame sensor, thermostat, thermistor, and coils (new set) test good. Would the thermostat or thermistor show continuity, but still be bad? I'm guessing one of the two, but I am no expert.
Answer Hello Albert,
Yes, Albert, the thermostat could be bad when showing continuity. The way this could happen is when it gets hot enough that it should open, the contacts inside the apparatus can be stuck and never shutting the heater off. This of course would cause the opposite of your complaint. The thermistor could be part of the issue, but it is more likely to be a control issue than the thermistor, if it ohmed out to the proper resistance (10KO @ 77°F). There could be a lint build-up on the thermistor inside the duct causing it to short cycle. I would suspect the thermistor or the control as the issue.
I am suspecting that you are referring to the highest temperature of the cycle. Here is how the average temperature should be obtained. Insert the temperature probe of your digital meter into the exhaust of the dryer. Start the unit and allow it to top out on its' temperature and cool down twice before annotating any readings. When it tops out, write the reading down.When it bottoms out, write the reading down. When it has done this three times, this is three cycles. Add the six numbers together and divide by six. This number is the average operating temperature.
Checking the average temperature this way should be cycling from about 110°F to about 180°F for an average operating temperature of about 145°F with the unit set to a normal setting.
This thermastat was just replaced last week and used a couple of times. Now its has the same problem. I suspect its open again. Should I replace or is something causing it blow?
Answer Dave, If the thermostat has failed again, check and make sure the exhaust vent duct and vent hood are not restircted,clogged,or kinked. Check the inlet duct under the lint filter and remove any lint build up in the housing. If the unit is in a closet, make sure the doors are remaining open when the dryer is in use.You may also want to consider a new thermistor 35001191, it could be irratic due to the heat stress. Thanks
Electric dryer, comes on but does not heat up.
Answer Hi Christina. I would use a volt/ohm meter part # TJMA-DM1 to assist. you in your diagnosis. There is a thermistor part # 35001191 on the blower housing cover. It should read 10,000 ohms at room temperature of 77°. If not within 5% then change it. There is a safety fuses to the left of it. Make sure it is closed at 0 ohms. Not open or infinity. This will stop the heat. Check the thermostats on the side of the heater assy. part # 35001119. All fuses need to be at o-ohms, closed. They will open in a over heat or a shorted circuit or wire. Make sure the heater ohms out between 10-18 ohms and is not shorted to the casing. Ohm one side terminal to the casing at a time to make sure.
The flame does not stay lit, the ducts are clean,the flame sensor and thermostat have continuity and and the coils and thermistor are new. Any other ideas?
Answer Hello Jgrover. Check and see if you are loosing gas to the unit. If so, you may have a bad gas valve 35001190. The regulator is made onto the gas valve on this unit. Make sure the igniter is good and not weak on the unit. If it glows, and the unit does not lite all the time, replace the igniter 33002789. Hope this helps.
The dryer flame lights but then goes out after a couple seconds earlier one of your reps said to change the coils, I did this and still have the same issue, could it be the thermostat or something else?
Answer Hello Jgrover. You will need to test the thermostats and the flame sensor and make sure they are good. They should read closed for continuity. Also, check the igniter and make sure it is getting hot enough to light the gas. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter for the testing procedures. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Should this part have continuity?
Answer Hello John. Yes, the thermostat 35001087 should have continuity. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
when dryer is turned on control lights up and timer counts down but nothing happens. will this part fix it? Also there is continuity threw this part.
Answer John, If there is continuity through the thermostat, then it's "good" and not the problem. Do you have any "codes" in the display ? Have you checked and made sure you have 240 VAC to the terminal block, on the back of the dryer. Check the door switch circuit (should be closed white to yellow with the door closed) and make sure the belt is on the drum and the belt switch on the idler assembly has a closed circuit. If all those check proper, we're going to need a control board 35001153 . Good Luck and Thanks.