My dryer gets hot but wont vent ,already cleaned vents and lint out, could it be the fuse that ( thermostat ) does that make it blow out the hot air ?
The thermal fuse and the thermostats would not cause there to not be air flow. The air flow is created by the blower wheel of the unit. When you turn the unit on, as long as the motor is running then the blower for the unit should be pulling air through the unit and blowing it out of the back of the unit. If this is not happening even with the vent disconnected from the back of the unit then the issue will most likely be a broken or clogged blower wheel.
I have an Amana gas dryer. Dryer heats fine and runs but will not turn off. Control knob advances only part way from More Dry to Less Dry and then stays in that position. Dryer ran for several hours the other evening. Duct is clean. Any suggestions on what part I should focus on checking?
Answer Hello Kurt. Several parts can cause this issue. Failed cycling thermostat. Failed resistor. Heater assembly does not heat or burner
does not ignite. Heater assembly or burner shuts off
prematurely. Improper or inadequate exhaust system.
Weather hood flapper maybe restricted. Drying load too large. Timer motor is inoperative. Possible air leaks at seals. Failed moisture sensing control.
Most of these parts will need to be checked and tested to determine the issue with the unit. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Need to no color of wires to cycling thermostat #ap053749 & back to heating element or wiring diagram of that area.
On the cycling thermostat, the side that has a single pole will get the black wire. The other side has 2 poles and they are marked 2 and 3. The one marked number 3, which is the bottom terminal, will have the orange wire and the other wire goes to the terminal marked 2.
I'm thinking I have a thermostat issue. The gas dryer fires up fine when tested (with front panel removed) but doesn't end up drying the clothes. The exhaust is clean. Thanks in advance.
Answer Hello Jake. Check and see if the flame lites, then goes out and never lites again. If so, it sounds like the coils may need to be replaced on the unit. Also, You will need to test the thermostats and the flame sensor and make sure they are good. They should read closed for continuity. Also, check the igniter and make sure it is getting hot enough to light the gas. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter for the testing procedures. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Just sent in question but made a mistake when checking cycling thermostat component was closed not open when when cheching with ohm meter by removing blue and purple wires and with closed with wires connected is this my drying problem. Thanks
Answer Paul, the regulating thermostat 503979 is probably not the issue. All thermostats in the dryer should have "closed" circuits, with the wires removed and when the thermostat is at room temperature(below 100 dgrs.). If you're sure the exhaust vent pipes and hood is clear, it sounds like a weak hi limit thermostat 489P3 or, a more likely weak gas valve coils 279834 Good Luck and Thanks
My Amana Dryer DLE330RAW takes at least 2 cycles to dry a load (on any cycle, auto or timed) on Low temp.
In the last week I have cleaned out the lint all through the machine and through the exhaust outlet, checked if it makes a difference if the house exhaust line is disconnected (just blowing into the laundry room), it doesn't, and replaced the cycling thermostat and thermostat heater, the heater coil itself and the overtemp thermostat.
I measured the outlet temp from the machine to check for cycling and it DOES cycle, only the heat at the outlet is only cycling from 90 deg to 115-120 deg, but I've read this should cycle from 110 to 155 which would account for why it takes so long to dry anything.
Any ideas, on what to change?
Answer Hello Derek. If all of those parts are new, then you will need to check and make sure the proper voltage is coming to the unit. It should have around 240 volts, at the terminal block. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html