The other day I opened the fridge and noticed it was extremely warm (60deg). I checked the damper and it was open, however there was no airflow. I then checked the freezer, saw no frost build up and noticed that the condenser fan was not spinning, however it was humming. If I flick the fan it will spin for 2-5 secs then stop. I figured the fan motor was bad so I replaced it, nothing changed. Still the same response except now maybe the fan will run 1-2 minutes steady, although noisy, and then come to a stop and hum. I checked the old motor for continuity and it showed 0. The new fan is showing 95-100. My next step was to chat with some of your technicians, they suggested replacing either the thermistor or the thermostat. I bought both components but only replaced the thermostat. The fan seems to run for 2-3 minutes but continues to seize up. Help! What do I do next????
Answer Hello Chad. If the fan motor was noisy, you may have a bad motor, or it may be binding up in the unit. Check the install and if good, try another motor. If the voltage is there, it has to be the motor. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Ok, my refrigerator (freddie) has gone warm, while my freezer is fine. I've looked on the forum and read most of the questions/answers here.
It appears this is a defroster thing-- according to the discussions.
I just talked with Gene-- on the forum (the owner of an appliance shop in the OC, in So. Cal). He said that my model does not have a defrost timer, but all that is controlled by a circuit board.
At this point, I'd like to know how I find out why my freddie is not working, while the freezer is.
I've looked at the diagram for the part, and it appears to somewhere inside the back panel of the freddie, but I have no idea where.
I've just replaced my dryer, so I'm really hoping to not have to do so with the freddie. Please.... help!
Answer Hello Steve B. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater 67002493 and the defrost thermostat 67003426. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer 12784415. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Kenmore mod#596.75509400. The bottom freezer works but the upper refrig.doesn't. The fan at the back of the freezer compartment is working, but no air coming from the damper unit in the refrig. Can you help me?
Answer Hello Suzanne,
Check to ensure that the damper assembly 67003903 is open. If it is not then you would need to replace the damper. You also want to check to see if you have frost build up on the back wall of freezer compartment as this will indicate a defrost failure. In the case of a defrost failure you will want to check continuity of the defrost thermostat 67003426 and the defrost heater 67002493. If either show no continuity they you will have to replace that part. If they both show good then you would need to replace the control board . You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
My freezer works fine but the refigerator compartment warms about every month and I have to dis-assemble and defrost. I have checked the heater element and it reads approximately 30 ohms. I have been told that the defrost thermostat may be bad and that it is the part that clips onto the evaporator coil. I cannot find the part on your drawings. Will part number AP4078076 work as a replacemnt or could the termistor be a problem. I would like to try these least costly things before replacing a circuit board.
Answer Doug, The defrost heater resistance is in range (Evaporator heater-Resistance- 28.1 ±5% ohms), so that's not the issue. The defrost thermostat and the "terminator" are the same part, just a different terminology. In your casr the defrost thermostat is part of the wiring harness W10292244 (Per Factory Def Thermostat Is Part Of Wiring Harness Prt#w10292244 And Is Not Available As Seperate Part.) Usually, the technical data sheet is located behind the lower kickplate, in a bag taped to the bottom of the refrigerator compartment above the condenser coil. If you haven't programmed into a defrost test mode, or run the diagnostic test cycle from the control board, you probably want to conduct the tests, before you replace anything. Thanks
Where is this thermostat? I can't find it in your drawings. The best this refrigerator can do is about -3 and it will not make ice very fast. It takes like 2 days to get one dump into the tray. We replaced the fan in the freezer compartment. The upper part is cold but freezing the water spout thing in the freezer. I have to use a hair dryer to get water going again. The temperature in the fresh food compartment is 39°. I have a spare themistor. Should I try and replace it in the bottom or replace the fan in the back? I hope you can help. I don't want to buy lots of parts if I don't have to. Thanks!
Answer Hello Frank,
There is no thermostat. This unit has an electronic control. The electronic control takes the place of the thermostat. If the freezer is running at -3°F, it is actually too cold. The ice maker is designed to operate at maximum efficiency between 0°F and 10°F. When it drops below 0°F, the ice maker has too much trouble harvesting to work up to maximum efficiency. Also, the water coming into the fill tube will freeze before it can run out completely. The two parts that are critical to the upper compartments temperature is the evaporator fan motor, (which you said you have replaced already), and the damper assembly, (which limits the amount of cold air can be circulated into the upper compartment). The other thing that causes the water to freeze in the fill tube is the water inlet valve. If it doesn't close properly, you wind up with a "weepage" into the freezer compartment which freezes in the fill tube.
The freezer is frosting up and when it does, the refrigerator stops cooling. This was happening every couple of months, now it happens about a week after letting it thaw. Is there a way to check whether or not it is the defrost thermostat before ordering the part? Would like to replace only what is needed. Thank you.
Answer Hello Beth. It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Freezer is defrosting it makes a buzz sound for a few seconds then stops. Could it be the thermostat?
Answer Hello AL. No, it sounds like the start device for the compressor. Here is a link to our Repair Forum, this is a free service to our customers. Use this link to access the repair for your question. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/refrigerator-freezer-repair/193358-freezer-fridge-not-cooling.html
Trying to remove control console to replace defrost timer board. How do you remove it?
Answer Hello Danny. Open the doors and remove the screws holding the door closer on the top of the unit. Next, insert a flat blade putty or butter knife in the front corners of the console and unsnap the console on the front and sides from the cabinet. Now pull the console toward you and unplug the wiring harness. Release the tabs holding the control board housing together and remove the control board housing. Now you can access and replace the control board 12784415. Hope this helps.