The dryer works fine when you use the timer but when you use the auto (more dry - less dry) function the dryer shuts off before the clothes are dry. From looking at your site I think it might be the cycling thermostat but it could also be the thermal fuses. What do you think it could be? Thanks for your help.
Answer Hello Tom,
This can only be caused by the improper programming of the unit or a bad cycling thermostat. Let me clarify before you get mad at me. The unit is designed to provide a longer dry cycle on the automatic cycle. When the cycling thermostat opens, the timer motor advances. If you put in a load of wet towels and put it on less dry, they will not be dry at the end of the cycle because the timer times out too quickly.
If the cycling thermostat is open, the timer will advance just like it has been programmed for a timed dry as the voltage will be applied to the timer motor as long as the unit is running. The thing about the cycling thermostat being open is unlikely as this will also cause no heat.
The only thing that makes sense to me is if the cycling thermostat is out of tolerance and is opening at too cool a temperature and the voltage is being applied to the timer motor too often, therefore timing out the cycle.
The problem cannot be the thermal fuse because if the thermal fuse is open, the unit will not run at all.
How do you test the thermostat that is by the motor? It has four wires that go to it.
Answer Hello Andy. The two large terminals on the thermostat control 31001088 should read closed and the two small terminals should have an ohms value around 4K. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
What are the other 2 parts to check for? I have new coils, checked thermo's, sensor,didn't check ignitor, it fires up. I hate to buy expensive gas valve because I don't know for sure if its the valve. Thank-you.
Answer Hi Marty. All thermal fuses should read closed, (0)-ohms. There is a sub la-1053 thermal fuse on the heater plenum, check this part # 53-1096. The flame sensor also reads closed. The igniter reads 50 -800 ohms closed , also if you see a hairline crack in the middle it may open under heat conditions. The cycling thermostat reads closed part # 31001088. Finally there is a coil kit you can use if you suspect they are open or open under fire, Part # 279834. Check and make sure you have 240 volts coming to the dryer. Check and make sure the unit is not set to Air Fluff. Also check the heater and thermal fuses and see if they are good. You can test these with a multi-meter parts you will need TJMA-DM1. They should read closed for continuity. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
When testing flame sensor the ohm should read 0 on your meter?
Answer Hi Marty. Yes, the radiant sensor should read closed (0-ohms) when cold with at least 1 wire disconnected. It basically acts as the cycling thermostat for a gas dryer. If the gas starts then quickly goes out , this will be the one of three parts to look at as defective. Part # 338906. Thank You.
all airways cleaned, changed coils. dryer glows, firers up goes off in a few sec. continue to do this about every minute
Answer Marty, Are you checking the cycle time, with the vent off and the drum empty. The burner should remain on for approximately 60 seconds, and reach an exhaust temperture of 150 dgrs. after the burner has cycled on and off 3 to 4 times. Did you check and clean the drum outlet duct, under the lint filter in the front of the dryer? Thanks and Good Luck
clothes are taking alot longer than they should to dry. vent is clear. did a continuity test on all the thermastats. my questiion is on the thermostat control. continuity on the outer prongs was ok. the continuity on the inner prongs was not. im thinking the thermostat control needs to be replaced. am i thinking correct?
Answer Brian, the two inner (brass colored) terminals on the thermostat are for a miniature heater inside the thermostat. It should have a resistance of .024O (a very light circuit) you may have misread the meter. You also need to check the temperature switch and make sure the circuit opens and closes for each temp. selected. Make sure you're not overloading the dryer(1/3 to 1/2 full drum with wet clothes). Thanks and Good Luck
The thermostat control AP4039476 shows continuity on the thermo fuse connectors. But not sure how to test the other connectors. Will the thermostat cause not to produce flame? I have replaced the igniter, flame sensor and the other thermostats, dryer igniter glows for 20sec and no flame
Answer Hi Jim. Are you checking with at least 1 - wire disconnected so you don't read back into another circuit as well? All thermostats should read closed while cold. The 2- inner terminals are a heater circuit (internal resister) for the cycling thermostat to preheat and keep better temperature swings. Consider replacing the gas coils also, part # is 279834.Check the coils 279834 and see if they test good. You can test the coils using a multi-meter TJMA-DM1. The two prong coil will read 1,000-1,300 ohms, and the three prong coil will read 1,300-1,400 ohms across prongs 1&2, and 500-600 ohms across prongs 1&3. Thank you.