My dryer stopped working. I've replaced the thermal fuse. It runs for 3 to 4 minutes on timed dry then shuts off. If you wait 3 minutes, it will restart. You put on air dry only will run full cycle.
Answer Hello Scott,
The motor is most likely overheating due to a restricted dryer exhaust duct. In normal operation, the heat is blown out of the exhaust duct and the air entering the unit is drawn in from the louvers on the back of the unit. This keeps the motor cool. If the unit cannot get rid of the heat, the thermal cutout on the motor will trip and the dryer will not start back up until the motor overload cools sufficiently to close the overload.
The dryer works fine when you use the timer but when you use the auto (more dry - less dry) function the dryer shuts off before the clothes are dry. From looking at your site I think it might be the cycling thermostat but it could also be the thermal fuses. What do you think it could be? Thanks for your help.
Answer Hello Tom,
This can only be caused by the improper programming of the unit or a bad cycling thermostat. Let me clarify before you get mad at me. The unit is designed to provide a longer dry cycle on the automatic cycle. When the cycling thermostat opens, the timer motor advances. If you put in a load of wet towels and put it on less dry, they will not be dry at the end of the cycle because the timer times out too quickly.
If the cycling thermostat is open, the timer will advance just like it has been programmed for a timed dry as the voltage will be applied to the timer motor as long as the unit is running. The thing about the cycling thermostat being open is unlikely as this will also cause no heat.
The only thing that makes sense to me is if the cycling thermostat is out of tolerance and is opening at too cool a temperature and the voltage is being applied to the timer motor too often, therefore timing out the cycle.
The problem cannot be the thermal fuse because if the thermal fuse is open, the unit will not run at all.
How do you test the thermostat that is by the motor? It has four wires that go to it.
Answer Hello Andy. The two large terminals on the thermostat control 31001088 should read closed and the two small terminals should have an ohms value around 4K. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
What are the other 2 parts to check for? I have new coils, checked thermo's, sensor,didn't check ignitor, it fires up. I hate to buy expensive gas valve because I don't know for sure if its the valve. Thank-you.
Answer Hi Marty. All thermal fuses should read closed, (0)-ohms. There is a sub la-1053 thermal fuse on the heater plenum, check this part # 53-1096. The flame sensor also reads closed. The igniter reads 50 -800 ohms closed , also if you see a hairline crack in the middle it may open under heat conditions. The cycling thermostat reads closed part # 31001088. Finally there is a coil kit you can use if you suspect they are open or open under fire, Part # 279834. Check and make sure you have 240 volts coming to the dryer. Check and make sure the unit is not set to Air Fluff. Also check the heater and thermal fuses and see if they are good. You can test these with a multi-meter parts you will need TJMA-DM1. They should read closed for continuity. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
When testing flame sensor the ohm should read 0 on your meter?
Answer Hi Marty. Yes, the radiant sensor should read closed (0-ohms) when cold with at least 1 wire disconnected. It basically acts as the cycling thermostat for a gas dryer. If the gas starts then quickly goes out , this will be the one of three parts to look at as defective. Part # 338906. Thank You.