having trouble getting it to heat. last week the dryer would not heat. i took it apart and cleaned out the vent it was clogged. it worked great after that for about a week or so, last night it stopped heating again. i took the fron off, making sure no obstruction in the vent. cleaned everything and now it lights the flame for about 25 to 30 seconds then goes out, then about a minute later will lite again for about 5 seconds then goes out. i have made sure there is nothing clogged, the motor is running fine, it just wont stay lit.
Answer Jeff, If all is clean and clear, and the dryer lint filter was clean, and dryer wasn't overloaded, then you'll need to check for a "weak" hi limit switch 489P3 or a weak set of gas valve coils 279834 . Try this, start the dryer and let it run 15 to 20 minutes, then check to see if the ignition process still occurs, If the coils are weak the igniter will glow, cycle off but there won't be any gas released and there'll be no ignition or flame. If there is ignition but a short burn time, the hi limit switch is weak and cycling the burner off too soon, or there is still a clog in the vent system.
If you have a bad thermostat, will the dryer motor still run, but drum will not spin just like my problem right now?
Answer Burt, Not really, The thermostats control the heat in the dryer drum. There is a heat sensitive thermal fuse in the motor circuit, but if it has failed (opens) the motor won't run, until it is replaced. It sounds more like you may have a broken drum belt 40111201 .
I have a Maytag Performa Electric Dryer. The timer is no longer advancing and there is a small amount of heat being produced. It continues to run and takes hours to dry.
Answer Hello Patrick. The will need to fix the heat to see if the timer will start to work then. Check and make sure you have 240 volts coming to the dryer. Check and make sure the unit is not set to Air Fluff. Also check the heater and thermostats and see if they are good. You can test these with a multi-meter TJMA-DM1. They should read closed for continuity. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Does this T-Stat contain a SPDT type switch? In other words, when the cut-out temperature is reached and the main terminal (#1) opens, does terminal #2 (the timer circuit) contact close?
Answer Bud, Yes, If the dryer is heating properly, and the hi limit thermostat remains closed, when the cycling thermostat cycles the heater circuit open and the internal contacts switch to terminal #2 and feeds the 120 VAC to the timer motor, and the timer dial moves, but only on the "auto advance" cycle. Good Luck and Thanks
My dryer lights for 5 seconds and shuts down. I cleaned vent and blower wheel and replaced therma fuse and senor. Could it be a bad cycling thermostat?
Answer Hello Fran. Yes, it could be a bad cycling thermostat 37001136. Based on the information you provided, if the igniter and thermal cut-offs are good, and the flame sensor reads closed for continuity, you will need to replace the gas valve 37001127. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
what color wire goes where on the cycling thermostat
Answer Tammy, You should have three(3) terminals on your thermostat, The single thermosta( by itself) should have the blue wire from the heat switch should be attached to it. on the other side you should have two(2) "stacked" terminals, the top terminal should have the orange wire going up to the timer attached to it, and the lower terminal(closest to the metal base should have the purple wire going to the hi limit thermostat attached to it. Thanks and good Luck