This is a follow up question on my KitchenAid Bottom freezer fridge.
I followed the steps you suggested and tested the defroster thermostat. It was ok. The fridge worked fine a for a few days after I turned the freezer off. It is now frosted up again blocking the cold air flow to the upper fridge. Could it be the defrost heater (same as the evaporator heater?). How does one get access to the defrost heater to test it? Is it from the back of the freezer?
If this is not the problem, what could it be? One of the other thermostats? Thank you again for your suggestions.
A way to test the system would be to put it into a defrost cycle. If you remove the rear wall in the freezer compartment, and access the defrost timer which is under the controls in the refrigerator compartment. Advance the timer until it clicks. Once it clicks allow to sit with the doors closed for 15 minutes. After the 15 minutes check to see if the ice on the coils have started to melt. If so then replace the defrost timer 67001036. If the ice has not started melting then you will want to check the continuity of the defrost thermostat and the defrost heater. The heater can be checked by disconnecting the wires on either side of the unit that attach to the metal air blocks. If the heater does not have continuity then replace the heater 67002493. If the thermostat does not have continuity then replace the thermostat 12001937.
Fridge is working fine but freezer is not getting cold enough to freeze food. What could be wrong?
Answer Hello SPM. Check and see if there is an even frost pattern. Also, make sure the condenser coils are clean and the fan is running properly.
My refrigerator is too cold despite the electronic control being lowered. A run of the diagnostic test indicated that the Defrost thermostat/ Defrost Circuit was Shorted. Would replacing with this part be the fix: AP4009073? Also, on your diagram for this part, it is indicated as number 30, however there does not appear to be a number 30 on the diagram. I only see up to number 28. Thank you.
Answer Matt, Not really, The defrost sytem if it failed would not cool very well, and there would be frost or ice on the back wall of the freezer compartmnt. You need to remove the grille from the back box cover, program into the service test mode and observe the damper and damper door operation (service test 6) to ensure the damper door opens and closes. Also remove the crisper drawers and check and remove any debris that has accumulated on the floor under the crispers, especially in the rear corners. It sounds more like an air flow or control board issue than defrost.
What volts should be coming out of the thermostat? I am getting 110 in but only 67 out.
Answer Ken, This appears to be a defrost terminator/thermostat, (we couldn't find a wiring diagram or parts diagram, In the defrost cycle there should be 120 VAC to chassis ground into the thermostat from the defrost timer/adc board, and 120 VAC out of the thermostat to the heater element. 67 VAC out would indicate a fault in the thermostat or a loose connection or a bad heater element. Thanks