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Our Kenmore Gas Dryer produces low heat, but it takes two full cycles to dry one load of clothes. I'm guessing the High-Limit Thermostat is broke (Part # 3403140). Is this a good guess? The lint screen and trap are clean. The exhaust duct is clean and not kinked.
Jason for Model Number 110.74942300
Answer Jason, That is a pretty good place to start, under the circumstances. You should also check the cycling/regulating thermostat as well 3387134 it could also have a weak contact across the 2 large terminals. Good Luck
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Note: This question is for the older version of this part, but we thought you might still find it helpful
The coils were tested with multimeter and came back with 1240 ohms on 2 prong and 3 prong 1-2 was 1350 and 2-3 1910 1-3 560 I thought those were OK readings. Where should I look next The thermostats are as above.
Mike for Model Number WGD5840SWO
Answer Hello Mike. Sometimes they will test good, until you put them under a load. If you test them under a load, they will test bad. Hope this helps.
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Note: This question is for the older version of this part, but we thought you might still find it helpful
Dryer is lighting. After running for a while it seems to cool off. Clothes were in for 80 minutes some were dry , some still slightly damp. Vent is clean.
Joe M for Model Number 11072812101
Answer Hello Joe. It sounds like the coils are bad. Check the coils 279834 and see if they test good. You can test the coils using a multi-meter TJMA-DM1. The two prong coil will read 1,000-1,300 ohms, and the three prong coil will read 1,300-1,400 ohms across prongs 1&2, and 500-600 ohms across prongs 1&3. Test the coils after running the dryer for about 10 minutes. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
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Our Kenmore 11092822101 Gas Dryer stopped heating. All functions on my dryer appear to work, but it is not generating any heat. On any heat generating cycle, the ignitor never glows, so I checked to see if it is getting any power, and the wires to the ignitor do not appear to be getting any juice. The hi-temp thermostat, ignitor and the flame sensor are closed for continuity, the two prong coil will reads 1,318 ohms (just outside of range), and the three prong coil reads 1,380 ohms across prongs 1&2, and 562 ohms across prongs 1&3. Several of the threads read plural thermostats, so am I missing one? What else do I need to check? Thanks.
Charles for Model Number kenmore 11092822101
Answer Charles, start at the gas valve, disconnect the wire harness, start the dryer in a drying cycle,Check for 120 VAC from the blue wire terminal to chassis ground(not the gas valve connection). No voltage would indicate an open thermal fuse 3390719, an open hi limit switch W10423382 , or a faulty heater relay on the control board 8546219, or a broken wire. You're right, you only have one(1) thermostat in your dryer, the hi limit switch. The Thermistor 8577274 on the blower housing controls the temperature in the drum and should have a resistance of 10,000 ohms at room temperature. If there is no voltage on the blue wire at the gas valve connector. the flame sensor and the igniter will not function, based on your post description, you next check is for voltage to the gas valve. Thanks
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My dryer it work but stopped heating suddenly and I been told to change the timer and the ignitor and I did and still not heating up. What should I do next?
Jamal for Model Number kenmore 11078532700
Answer Hello Jamal. You will need to test the thermostats and the flame sensor and make sure they are good. They should read closed for continuity. Also, check the igniter and make sure it is getting hot enough to light the gas. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter for the testing procedures. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
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The timer operates on "timed dry" just fine. On "Auto Dry", the "timer" does not advance at all. The dryer heats up just fine, and drys the clothes, it just never shuts off in the "Auto Dry" mode. I have changed the sensors and the cycling thermostat, but that had no effect. Checked all wire connections at timer, and door switch works fine. Dryer does not seem to get overly hot, and I do hear the burner kicking on and off, periodically, during the "timed dry" use of the dryer. Checked all vents, vent connections, blower, and blower housings. They were spotless and working fine.
Fred F. for Model Number 110.75962401
Answer Hello Fred,
If the unit will advance on the timed dry setting but not on the automatic settings, the problem isn't with the dryer, but with the exhaust duct. I've had arguments about this before so to avoid this, let's try an experiment. If the problem is the duct, the dryer will advance on the automatic cycles if the duct is disconnected. So disconnect the duct and watch the timer on the automatic setting. It may take 5 or 10 minutes for you to notice that it has advanced, but it will.
Let me explain why this is. On the timed cycles, the timer motor has voltage applied to it at all times, so it advances at a constant rate. On the automatic cycles, the timer motor only gets voltage when the moisture sensors inside the unit are not picking up the presence of moisture. If the unit advances when the duct is off it's because the moisture has been purged from the unit and voltage is now being supplied to the timer.
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Runs way too hot.
David for Model Number 110.92822101
Answer Hi David. There is thermistor mounted on top of the blower hsg. and it should read 10,000 ohms cold. If it is out of range then it will allow the incorrect temperatures. If the vent system is clogged it will back up and allow lint and moisture to collect on the face of the sensor to run it also. Thermistor part # 8577274. Thank You.