Washer stopped working with water in tub. Repaired lid contact and would spin and drain but will not do anything else. Could this be a timer issue?
Answer ESP, Yes, it could be a timer 22003499 issue. Once you remove the control panel from the console, you should find the wiring diagram inside. You should then test the water level switch 22002705 circuits, put the timer dial in a fill and wash cycle, pull out the knob, and check the timer terminal / contact circuits using the timeer cam chart.
Stops mid cycle, if I turn it on and off or move dial or let it rest for a while it will run properly and finish the cycle. Any idea what part needs to be replaced ? If yes, can the needed part be easily replaced ?
Answer Hello Joe,
There could be a couple of things that would cause this issue. Based on the information it sounds like the motor is overheating. Things that could cause this is too low or high voltage coming to the motor. You should have 120 +/- 10 percent vac. A stuck contact on the timer causing unit to send conflicting voltage to the motor spin and agitate signal. A bad pump that may be making noise and causing drag on the motor. Or a bad thrust bearing which is allowing the brake to not release enough and causing a drag. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
I have a Maytag Atlantis, I've had it for about 12 years. Recently I filled it to wash and after it filled it wont do anything else! I had a repair man out that told me it was the timer, and that it would cost $240.00, and if it were him he wouldn't fix it but he had a washer/dryer set at his shop he'd sell me for $300.00 I got on your site to see if I could find the part and you have it for $83 so now I'm doubting the man that came out how do I know if it's even the timer thats bad? Thanks
Answer Hi Diane. The lid switch is part # 22003804. When the unit fills then stops you need to replace it. If at first you need to check it then the two terminals next to the plunger should read closed with the lid closed. If they are open, the switch is bad. Also the terminal next to the plunger and the third terminal should read closed with the lid closed. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. You remove the back cover and lift the lid as then you pull (slide) the switch out and up. It has grooves in the top of the cabinet that the switch guides itself into while installing. Thank You.
The washer stays in rinse cycle until timer moves to off. It does not go through the spin cycle and does not drain the water. Ends wash cycle with the tub full of water. Thinking it may be the timer?
Answer Hello Jake. You will need to check and make sure the lid switch 22003804 is good on the unit. See if the washer does the spin cycle after the wash cycle befor rinse. If not, and the timer advances through both spin cycles, the lid switch may be the problem on the unit. If the timer spins the first, but not the last, it sounds like the timer 22003499 may need to be replaced on the unit. Hope this helps.
Washer will not turn on, power is ok, nothing happens when switch is in any position.
pcb bad or switch?
Answer Hello Doug. You will need to check and see if the lid switch 22003804 is bad on the unit. If so, it will prevent the unit from working properly. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html