The timer does not move and the dryer continues to run, too long. What should I check on the timer before I purchase a new one.
Answer Hello AJP. Check and see if your getting power to the timer motor while running. If so, then the timer will need to be replaced. The voltage will come and go based on the thermostat opening and closing. Hope this helps.
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I replaced a couple of parts on the dryer. With each part I replaced the dryer got hot again then stopped. I noticed the timer was working sometimes on the 60 minute side and not on the very hot side. will this stop the dryer from getting hot all the time ??
Answer Michael, though it's possible, it's not likely the timer. The temperature/heat should be the same on both the auto advance and the timed dry settings. Your first check should be at the exhaust vent, make sure the vent pipe and the vent hood are not kinked or clogged with debris and lint. Then check all the thermostats for a "closed" circuit(s) at room temperature. If all's OK, you'll need to observe the burner operation for 15 or 20 minutes to make sure the gas valve coils 279834 are not weak and failing causing the dryer to not heat during the cycle.
My dryer will not start sometimes. I turn it to the desired setting and hit the start button and nothing. So, I unplug it. Then after a few minutes. I plug it back in and switch it to the desired setting and it works fine. Thoughts?
Answer Chris, Check and make sure the power cord connections at the terminal block on the back of the machine are good and tight. make sure you press and hold the start switch for a second or two, and the loading door is closed and "latched". You may have an issue in the timer (dead spot) but check everything else first.
The dryer runs and drys fine but after it has gone trough a cycle and turned off , the timer keeps running through the next cycle option and sometimes turns back on. Is the the timer or another heat or mositure sensor?
Answer Hello Tom,
This issue would be caused by a bad timer 8566184. When the unit is in the off position. If you would want to check power to the timer. If you are getting 120vac between BU and WB then you have a bad timer. If you leave door open and still have power going betwen these connections then you would be looking for a short to ground. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
The timer serves to convey current via the gas valve?
Answer Hi. Yes but..Use a volt/ohm meter part # TJMA-DM1 to assist you in your diagnostics. You need to measure the 120 vac to the ignitor part # 5303937186 first to see if the timer and the wires to the are ok. Then ohm the cold to see if it has between 50-400 ohms cold and it does not have a crack in the middle (opened). Dryer Gas Coils: Check the coils 5303931775 and see if they test good. You can test the coils using a multi-meter TJMA-DM1. The two prong coil will read 1,000-1,300 ohms, and the three prong coil will read 1,300-1,400 ohms across prongs 1&2, and 500-600 ohms across prongs 1&3. Beside the ignitor is a Flame sensor part # 5303281135 that has to be closed(0-ohms cold). It acts as a cycling thermostat to regulate the temperature. Make sure the door switch is shut, part # 5303281044. Does the unit run? The timer is no longer available. Thank You