My dryer stopped in the middle of a cycle and appears to be dead. I checked power from my main breaker to the power outlet and I have power. What could have happened?
Answer Hello Phillip,
This could be the thermal fuse LA-1053. If you test and it is bad, be sure to clear the exhaust duct, (full 4 inch diameter duct all the way to outside), since this is the cause of the thermal fuse failure. If it tests good, the issue can be either the door switch 53-0148 or the timer 53-1810.
The maytag dryer will run 1 or 2 loads then will not start unless it sits for 1/2 hour or so. Also,makes different sound when starting.
Answer Jim, It's not likely the timer 53-1810 It's more likely a weak motor W10410996 or low/borderline voltage to the dryer. Overheated motor bearings or low voltage, will change the sound of the motor when it starts and runs due to the excess "drag" on the motor.
Where is thermo fuse located?
Answer Hello Jeff. It is on the side of the heater box. It is number 5 in the parts breakdown link provided. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/heater-parts-for-magic-chef-cye3004ayw.html
I have capacity plus Admiral dry 4 wires came off the timing doing a moving and I do not know there the wire go so I need help. A diagram is needed.
If you put the model in to look up parts there is a wiring diagram. Unfortunately we do not have a copy that we can send out. Here is how the wiring of timer should be
Terminal color wire
L black line voltage in
H red to heat selector switch
R Red to heater
N White to Neutral in
B White to Buzzer
M Orange to motor
S Purple to motor
Dryer stopped mid cycle, wasn't present, so I don't know if there was a noise or odor. When discovered, clothes weren't dry completely. When you turn the timer it clicks at the various settings, but when you push to start, it does NOTHING, no click, no hum, no nothing. We check the circuit breaker/ OK, the door switch seems to be OK, hose from the dryer to outside is also clear. I see in other Q&A you recommend checking the thermal fuse, we do have a meter an found the fuse. Exactly where on the fuse must it be tested? Can you suggest other possibilities for this problem?
Answer Hello Sandy,
When you disconnect the wires from the thermal fuse and test across the terminals on the fuse it should read closed. Any open fuse is bad. Also check your blower wheel to make sure that there is not excessive lint build up on it not allowing air to flow properly. Also check to make sure that the cycling and/or high limit thermostat are good.
The dryer will not start and the fuse tested good. I think it is the main on/off switch.
Answer Hello Joe. Check the door switch on the unit and make sure it is good. If so, you may have a bad timer preventing the unit from starting. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
My Dryer just stoped working while drying clothes. My wife thought the cycle was done, however the timer was hard to turn. I have power to the dryer receptacle. I found a wiring diagram and from what I seen, if the timer failed that the unit will not work?
As it is, the timer turned in any position will not do anything.
Answer Hello Gary,
If the timer fails the unit will not work, but it could also be a failed thermal fuse that could be causing problem. Using multi-meter you want to check for continuity of the thermal fuse. If you do not have continuity then you will need to replace thermal fuse LA-1053. If you do find the thermal fuse to be bad you will also want to check the venting from the blower wheel all the way to the outside of home for clogs. This is the most common reason for thermal fuse to blow. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html