The maytag dryer will run 1 or 2 loads then will not start unless it sits for 1/2 hour or so. Also,makes different sound when starting.
Answer Jim, It's not likely the timer 53-1810 It's more likely a weak motor W10410996 or low/borderline voltage to the dryer. Overheated motor bearings or low voltage, will change the sound of the motor when it starts and runs due to the excess "drag" on the motor.
Where is thermo fuse located?
Answer Hello Jeff. It is on the side of the heater box. It is number 5 in the parts breakdown link provided. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/heater-parts-for-magic-chef-cye3004ayw.html
I have capacity plus Admiral dry 4 wires came off the timing doing a moving and I do not know there the wire go so I need help. A diagram is needed.
If you put the model in to look up parts there is a wiring diagram. Unfortunately we do not have a copy that we can send out. Here is how the wiring of timer should be
Terminal color wire
L black line voltage in
H red to heat selector switch
R Red to heater
N White to Neutral in
B White to Buzzer
M Orange to motor
S Purple to motor
Dryer stopped mid cycle, wasn't present, so I don't know if there was a noise or odor. When discovered, clothes weren't dry completely. When you turn the timer it clicks at the various settings, but when you push to start, it does NOTHING, no click, no hum, no nothing. We check the circuit breaker/ OK, the door switch seems to be OK, hose from the dryer to outside is also clear. I see in other Q&A you recommend checking the thermal fuse, we do have a meter an found the fuse. Exactly where on the fuse must it be tested? Can you suggest other possibilities for this problem?
Answer Hello Sandy,
When you disconnect the wires from the thermal fuse and test across the terminals on the fuse it should read closed. Any open fuse is bad. Also check your blower wheel to make sure that there is not excessive lint build up on it not allowing air to flow properly. Also check to make sure that the cycling and/or high limit thermostat are good.
The dryer will not start and the fuse tested good. I think it is the main on/off switch.
Answer Hello Joe. Check the door switch on the unit and make sure it is good. If so, you may have a bad timer preventing the unit from starting. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
My Dryer just stoped working while drying clothes. My wife thought the cycle was done, however the timer was hard to turn. I have power to the dryer receptacle. I found a wiring diagram and from what I seen, if the timer failed that the unit will not work?
As it is, the timer turned in any position will not do anything.
Answer Hello Gary,
If the timer fails the unit will not work, but it could also be a failed thermal fuse that could be causing problem. Using multi-meter you want to check for continuity of the thermal fuse. If you do not have continuity then you will need to replace thermal fuse LA-1053. If you do find the thermal fuse to be bad you will also want to check the venting from the blower wheel all the way to the outside of home for clogs. This is the most common reason for thermal fuse to blow. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
My dryer will not work,but when I push the start button,I hear low clicking noises until I turn setting to off position. It has always worked good but has stopped. I have not done any trouble shooting etc. What is your gut feeling as to part replacement?
Answer Hi Richard. The clicking you hear is the timer motor progressing the timer internal cams/contacts. If the dryer is not running then the usual part is the thermal fuse part # LA-1053. You use a putty knife on the inside front panel top corners clips to release the top and hinge it up. The thermal fuse is mounted on the rt. side of the heater chassis on two smaller white wires. First replace the red wires of the high limit on top of the heater on the new high limit and set it aside mounted to the limit mount. This keeps it out of the way so you can remove the heater part # LA-1044. Remove the 1/4" -1" long screw on the upper rt. heater area. Slide the heater to the lt. and up and out. This way you can inspect the heater coils for stretching or open coils. This allows you to lift the thermostat with the 2- white wires up and then cock the bottom mount tang so it will lift up and out along with the part inset into it. Replace the thermal fuse and all parts in the opposite reassembly procedure. All of this is caused by a couple of issues. If you heard a thumping, scratching sound then remove the front blower wheel part # 31001317 cover and see if the blower is worn loose on the motor shaft. Inspect the total vent run for restrictions allowing the heater to become white hot instead of red hot as it held in too much heat and moisture. Clean all lint build up on the outside vent cover/Flapper so it does not stay open and not operate properly. It will stay open and allow night moisture , rain or snow moisture to get inside the vent run and create a restriction. Plastic vents cause 20,000 house fires annually. Use rigid flex metal vent w/ no ribs and that alone will increase efficiency 25% as well. Thank You.