Were is the defrost timer located in this Kenmore refrigerator?
Answer Hello Juan,
The defrost timer 67001036 is located in the ceiling of the fresh food compartment between the lights and mounts to the bracket 67002085 surrounding the lights.
Defrosted and replaced adaptive defrost control and now compressor doesn't come on.
It sounds like the control board may have been set on a defrost cycle and normally within 30 minutes the unit will kick on. If this did not happen then most likely the control board may be defective and need to be replaced. Also check the relay on the compressor to make sure that it is not bad. You can pull the relay and shake it and if it rattles then it is bad.
I have used terminal 2 im starting to question if the new timer is working properly.
Answer Hello Matthew. For cumulative run timer
push slotted loose timer
motor lead over & all the
way down terminal
number 2 with wire
toward timer motor.
The timer I have is 8 hour 7 min defrost looks the same as this one the spec no is" CD-2001-57 7 MINUTES".
Can I use this timer and will a longer defrost time damage the defrost heater Not replaceable as the interior is glude to the exteior no screws Help my customer is up set thank you for your help.
You would not want to use a timer that will stay in defrost longer as it could damage the unit. If the timer that you have is a 8 hr 7 min timer it just means that it goes into defrost every 8 hrs and stays on for 7 minutes. If you have another timer that is a 7 minute timer then it will work. You just do not want to extensively extend the length of time between defrosts.
Freezer coils frosting up. I changed the thermostat and the timer-checked the continuity on heater and it was at 34 ohms, however the heater in regular or forced mode still does not get hot. I put a test light on one end of female plug to heater and it shows some electricity.
Answer Hello Jim,
There are only three components in the defrost circuit if you don't count the wiring harness. They are the defrost heater, the defrost thermostat, and the defrost timer. The timer will remove the power from the compressor and other cooling parts of the unit and apply the power to the defrost circuit when it goes into the defrost cycle. This means that the 120Vac that was going towards the units' cooling is now being applied to the defrost heater to melt away the frost build-up that is normal on the evaporator coils. It is the defrost thermostats' job to prevent the heater from getting hot enough to thaw any food that is frozen in the freezer compartment. When the defrost thermostat reaches approximately 50°F, it opens the circuit so the voltage is no longer applied to the defrost heater.
It is safer to test the components with a resistance meter with the unit unplugged from its' power supply. This way you can unplug one of the wires to prevent reading back through a neighboring circuit.The defrost thermostat should show 0O of resistance. This is a complete circuit as opposed to the "OL", (overload), which shows when there is no electrical continuity. The "OL" basically means that the meter cannot read the extremely large amount of resistance shown in the open circuit. The defrost heater, if good, will read a resistance. The amount of resistance is dependant on the particular circuit. It can range from 10O to 120O, so I just look for a reading without an initial after the readout. You can also pull the wiring diagram to get the specific resistance, but you still have to realize that since mankind is not perfect, there has to be a 10%± variance to the reading. As far as testing with a test light goes, this may tell you if voltage is present, but many problems in appliances are caused by voltage drops from shorted components. The test light doesn't tell you if the proper voltage is present and could delay the repair un-necessarily.
If all of the components test good, the defrost heater should turn orange when energized if the defrost thermostat is below about 20°F. If it all tests out good, there will be an air leak at fault. This will almost always be found around the door seal, unless there is an ice through the door option on the unit. The ice door is a common source of an air leak.
Refrigerator and freezer are running fan is running but it is not cooling. I cleaned condenser needed cleaning badly. It still is not cooling.
Answer Hello Joe,
Either the defrost thermostat R0161088 is bad or the start device on the compressor has failed. If there is a frost build-up on the back wall of the freezer compartment, the defrost thermostat is the most likely cause. If there is no frost build-up, the compressor should be checked. It will vibrate if you put your hand on it if it is running. Sometimes, the condenser fan motor has to be unplugged to be able to tell if the compressor is running or not. If the compressor isn't running, remove the start relay 10097202 from the side of the compressor and shake it. If it rattles, it has failed.