When I depress the cycle selector button nothing happens. I only hear a low buzzing sound and the dial will not stay depressed. I am not sure how many components will need to be replaced.
Answer Gene, Based on your description, you may have a low voltage problem, check and make sure there's 220 - 240 VAC at the outlet and the terminal block on the back of the dryer. As for parts needs, you'll need to consider a timer 37001240 if thats where the buzz noise is located. or blocked blower wheel or bad motor 2200376 if the buzz noise is down low in the cabinet. Hope this will help Good Luck.
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My dryer does not automatically turn off in the auto modes. Is there a moisture sensor or something like that need to be replaced?
Answer Hello Eric,
There is not a moisture sensor on this unit. Based on the information it sounds like contact in timer is sticking and timer would need to be replaced.
Install a new timer and wires seem to be right. The dryer will not start but has power. Light and buzzer works.
Answer Hello Ron,
You will want to check the exhaust thermal fuse 40113801 to make sure that it is not blown. Also check your venting from the blower wheel to the outside of the home to make sure that it is clear. An obstructed vent or blower wheel will cause the thermal fuse to blow and will not allow the motor to start. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
My dryer won't heat at all most of the time. Some times it's a bit warm but not much. When I put it at normal dry, the timer stops moving at the middle of the cycle. But it continues it's cycle eternally. I have to stop it manually (open the door) otherwise it will never stop. The 2 other cycles are ok. Goes from start till the end normally but no heat.
Answer Hello Carolyne,
You will want to check to make sure that you do not have an open heating element. Also check for the hi limit thermostat tripping easily or early open. Check the regulating thermostat for tripping easily or being open. Check to make sure that your thermistors are closed and not open. Also if the normal cycle that you are using is sensor dry you would want to check resistance on the sensor bars. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Looking at the electrical schematic, when the dryer is in regular heat auto mode, the timer motor should get power through the cycling thermostat which will send power to the V terminal on the 3-position switch. The switch won’t affect this except when LI to C (regular heat) continuity is disrupted. I checked the V terminal (connected to the same orange wire as the cycling thermostat) with the dryer running (reg heat and auto) and there was no power. But I think this is the case most of the time since the cycling thermostat is probably not in the position to send power to the timer. Am I off base? If not, what next?
Answer Hello Chris. Yes, you tested it properly. Ok, if the motor is not getting power from the orange wire coming off the cycling thermostat, and the thermostat is new, you will need to trace and see where you are loosing the power at. The cycling thermostat has to drop the blue wire from the purple wire and send voltage to the timer motor through the orange wire. The temperature switch is testing good, according to continuity, and you have power at the blue wire. Make sure the cycling thermostat is hooked up correctly, I'm sure it is , but it does not hurt to check and see. The cycling thermostat has 5 terminals on it, and you will only use three. You will use the two large and the small one by the large terminal according to the diagram. If it is wired properly, you will need to run the unit and trace and see where you are loosing the power on the orange wire at. Hopefully this is not confusing you. Thank you and Good luck!!