I just replaced the timer on my dryer, now my dryer will come on & has power but will not stay on unless you hold the button.
Answer Hello Ken,
This problem can be caused by the timer being mis-wired or a bad new part. The other thing that can cause this is a defective motor winding.
Can I use a w10185972 timer to replace a w10185972e timer? I have an electric dryer... 220 volt feed... Dan b
Answer Hello Dan. You can use W10185972, but the other part number you provided, w10185972e, is not showing up as a good model number.
Will timer W10185972 fit on this whirlpool dryer?
Answer Hello Vickey. the correct timer for your model will be Part# 3976580
Hi my dryer won't start but when I push the start button it makes a buzzing noise but want start I'm thanking that it might be the timer but not sure can you help.
You will want to check to see if the motor is getting 120 vac when you are pushing the start switch. Another thing to do is to open the door and tape the door switch to the closed position, push the start switch and turn the drum. If the drum starts turning on its own then the start winding in the motor is bad. If not then the timer would be the most likely cause.
Dryer stopped mid cycle. I checked the door switch and thermal cut off fuse.
Answer Hello David. Test the power coming to the unit and look for burnt or bad wiring on the unit. If all that is good, you will need to trace and see where your losing power at. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
My electric dryer run and cycles, but no heat. I have checked out the heat coils, hi limit thermo fuse and thermostat all seem good. dont want to spend money on a bunch of parts I think there is only the motor and the timer left. The switch on the motor does make a complete circuit when pushed in manually. Please advise which path I should take to repair my dryer. thank you
The best way to determine which side you are loosing power on it to disconnect 1 wire from the heating element. Then you will want to turn on the unit and test from each of the wires (continuing to leave one wire disconnected) to ground. There should be 120 vac on each line. If one of the lines does not have voltage then that is the side that is loosing power. If it is the side that goes to the thermal fuse and hi limit then it is the timer side and if it is the other wire then that would be to the motor.