1) The repair kit No. 2204512 contains 2 sizes of rubber plugs. The 2 smaller ones fit into the inner stainless steel tub bottom. Where do the 8 bigger ones go? These are 2201458. There is no mention in instruction sheet.
2) Before I reinstall the inner tub, is it advisable to grease thread inside the washtub hub? As this is aluminum, a bit of grease may help keep it from corrosion. Disadvantage: the hub may not stay tight.
3) On disassembly, I used a short dull chisel to tap all 4 recesses in washtub hub. It loosened easy. I assume re-assembly can be done same way. It appears a standard washer wrench will not recess into the four rectangular slots due to a raised rim around inner edge of inner tub. Actually, the 4 bolt heads also keep the wrench raised so that it can't recess into the 4 slots.
4) How about a little light lube (WD40) on the nylon slider ring below motor which slides around on the cone built into the housing? Or best left dry? It doesn't appear to have had any lubricant as there was no dirt caked on the cone.
Answer Tom, The rubber "plugs" in the kit, should be used to cover the openings in the bottom of the tub, under the agitator. (as you have done). The kit contains parts to repair various versions of this machine, Depending on "series" or "P" number, some washers had two small openings and other versions had three larger openings, so you'll have extra parts when completed. Don't forget to remove the lint filter 40008001 when you reconstruct the washer. It won't be effective, and can create issues down the road.
How does the Triple Lip seal come off? Does it pull off or unscrew?
Answer Hello Jay. The lip seal is pressed into the tub assembly. You have to press it out of the outer tub assembly to remove it.
Two seal kits are listed for my washer with diffrent prices. One is a series 14 and the other is not. What one do I need? What is a series 14 and how do I know what I have?
The first 2 digits of your serial number denotes the series number. If you have series 10 - 13 the part number for the triple lip seal is W10116791 and series 14 and higher is part number W10116790. With replacing the triple lip seal due to a leak then you may want to replace the main bearing 40004201P.
I have the tank and plastic tub out. How do I remove rubber tank seal?
Answer Hello Danny,
You would need a seal removal tool 12002012. The part is showing not available. You could try to remove by pushing out and new one in, but doing it this way you take a greater risk of damaging the outer tub.
I was wondering if you could give me a list or a tool kit of what tools are required to replace the Triple Lip Seal/hub kit.
Answer Hello Edward,
In addition to a 3/8 drive ratchet set, you will need a Phillips head screwdriver, a pair of needle nosed pliers, adjustable wrench (Crescent style), a brake and bearing removal and reinstallation tool 12002012, spring removal tool TJ22002922, a rubber mallet and a good pair of mechanics gloves. There is also a spanner nut in there under the inner tub that the spanner wrench TJSHSW-1 is no longer available but it uses an adaptor TJ22002898. I found that you can use the adaptor, a couple of Phillips head screwdrivers and a wrench to get the seal nut off. This eliminates the need for the discontinued spanner wrench. You have to put one screwdriver through the hole in the end of the wrench and the end of both screwdrivers in holes in the adaptor on opposite sides, and use the wrench to turn the seal nut. This isn't the easiest thing in the world, but it will do the job. You will also need a large shipping blanket or equivalent to protect the floor.
What could be the problem with the washer that makes a loud roaring train soung when spinning?
Answer Hello Kathy. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the tripple lip seal W10116791 is bad and will need to be replaced. The bearing in the seal is bad. Hope this helps.