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Customer Questions and Answers for Valve, 60 Hz. (includes Pipe & Illus. NO.7) by Whirlpool

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    • Part Number: AP3081145
    • MFG Part Number: 8318277
    • Made by: Whirlpool
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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Valve, 60 Hz. (includes Pipe & Illus. NO.7) (Part Number: AP3081145)

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I hear a buzzing noise while the burner attempts to heat. Checked thermostats and high limit switches and all good. tested resistance on solenoids and they were good, but purchased replacement anyways. when I got new ones they show same resistance as existing. Under the solenoids I see a sleeve that is removable on the one with three prongs. none on the other. is this right? I got the burner to pop on for just a second one time only so I know I have gas to the valve. I am thinking the valve is stuck on the primary gate. If I pull off the cover at the end of the valve I can see the gate is closed except for a crack. that did not seam right either. DO I need to replace the valve?

Tom for Model Number 11072832000

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My maytag dryer was not in use for about a year then I moved hooked up my dryer the drum spins but I doesn't get hot and after running for a min the drum fills with a strong gas oder I opened the peek hole and when the dryer is turned on it does glow orange but the pilot never lites

April for Model Number mgd5600tq0

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Note: This question is for the older version of this part, but we thought you might still find it helpful

Followup on previous question WRT conversion to LP ggas: Rcv'd. my new gas valve W10304604. On-line research indicates this is the a model valve replacing the W10337269 that I ordered. I also found info indicating that converting the new valve to LPG is easier than the older style. The center round cover can be rotated with suitable pliers or spanner to align the LPG designation with the hash mark on the edge of outer cover. Although I have been unable to identify an LP conversion kit p/n for the new style valve, it appears that the original style LP gas orifice # 54 from a # 49572 conversion kit can be used. I plan to pull the old orifice and see if the threads fit the new valve. Can you confirm that this proceedure is correct, and/or I.D. the conversion kit p/n for the orifice? Mahalo, Dave

David in Volcano, Hi for Model Number 11079522800

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Note: This question is for the older version of this part, but we thought you might still find it helpful

Dryer has a buzzing noise constantly when the burner flame is on , i disconnected the end of cycle buzzer to check if it was the problem, and it did not solve the problem. At this point i suspect that the valve secondary solenoid is defective and is making the 60hz noise. Please advise if to replace the coil or the valve assembly

Andres T for Model Number whirpool dryer mod WGD5700 VWO

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Note: This question is for the older version of this part, but we thought you might still find it helpful

Checked all thermal fuse, igniter, temperature controllers, flame sensor, etc. All working perfectly. First thing in the morning and gas valve coils are cold, when dryer calls for heat -> igniter glows bright orange, flame sensor allows coils to open and gas flows, ignites, heat -> perfect. Gas cycles off when upper setpoint temperature is reached. Works like this for 3 or 4 cycles. But then no more gas/flame. Igniter and everything else working exactly the same. I can hear the click and feel the slight buzzing as the coils are energized, but no gas makes it thru the valve. Coils slightly warm to touch. I.e. after dryer is run for a while, no more gas but it's trying! Checked DC resistance of coils, and it falls right inline with the numbers you've posted, so the coils can't be bad can they? Knowing how those coils are designed/made, I can't imagine they degrade over time. My theory: the gas valve is slightly sticky/gummy and when the coils heat up they don't generate quite enough field to open the valve. In other words I should replace the $90 valve instead of just the $15 coils. Am trying to take the least expensive path, and would love some advice how to proceed. PS: I love you guys, and continue to be a loyal customer. Between your videos and these Q&A postings, you've saved me HUNDREDS in repair bills. I am becoming more and more comfortable fixing these appliances myself thanks to your awesome site, service, prices and fast delivery. I've tried to show some love by writing positive reviews on resellerratings.com. Thanks again!

J.beebo for Model Number LGQ9508LW0

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The dryer flame is low. I checked all of the sensors with an ohm meter.

Joe O. for Model Number 11079522800

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Smell gas when dryer is not in use. Turned the supply valve off and smell went away. Turned it back on, checked for leaks on the supply lines, connections and shut of valve and everything was ok. After turning the gas back on didn't have gas odor untill several hours later. Dryer functions normal, just has the intermitant leak. Could this be a defective valve or bad coils?

Jackson for Model Number Whirlpool WGD5700SW0

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turn dryer on but the only click is the motor coming on. the igniter does not light, the valve on the gas assembly does not click on from coils. nothing seems to come on except motor from drum. can i check to see if coils are bad. i have the gas assembly out of dryer. how to test coils with ohm meter.

Bob for Model Number agd4370tqo

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The igniter is coming on, but no gas.

Roy for Model Number tgdx640jq1

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No Heat - The glowing starter comes on but no flame then it slowly fades out.

Sue for Model Number TGDS840JQ1

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