I have water at the water dispenser but not at the ice maker. I ohms tested the fill valve and only got a slight movement in the needle. (around 0.2). We have moved from city water to a well. When first installed it worked fine. Been around 2 months since we hooked up. Water pressure is around 45 psi. The tube at the top of the refer pops out of the angle fitting that goes to the inside of the refer.
Answer Hello Dennis,
The water line popping out from the top fitting is the indication that the water valve W10245167 is either bad or insufficient water pressure is being delivered to the water valve. You should make sure the water line isn't crimped and that the water pressure at the valve is sufficient. Since the water valve is closed only by water pressure, the water line should not be connected to the home water supply with a self-tapping saddle valve. These clog with sedimentation and mineral deposits too readily and cause constant complaints. If this is the method that has been used, the valve can be slid aside and the pierced hole in the water line drilled out to a 1/4 inch opening. The fill tube in the freezer will have to be thawed out with a hair dryer. This only takes about 15 minutes but will be necessary along with the valve replacement to restore normal operation.
I am having some trouble with my refrigerator ice maker. I am not getting water up to my ice maker. Do you have some answers for that problem? It does not seem to be frozen. The valve is out, I checked with a tester and I am not getting a reading of 120 volts at the valve with the bar on the icemaker in the down position. What voltage should I have at the valve? Thank you, Fred
Answer Hello Barbara/Fred,
You will have 0Vac at the water valve until the ice maker cycles and the points in the ice maker close. At that time you will have 120Vac for about 7 seconds. To test the ice maker you will need a piece of insulated wire, stripped on each end to jump the voltage over the ice maker thermostat from terminal "T" to terminal "H". You may need to close the door switch as some ice makers are wired through the door switch so it won't drop ice while putting groceries away. Jumping these terminals should begin a cycle and you will only have 2 or so minutes to look at the test meter. The test meter should be on the terminals to the water valve that has the fill tube going from it up the back of the unit. Near the end of the cycle, you should see 120Vac for about 7 seconds.If you never get the voltage, you will need to replace the ice maker D7824706Q. If you do see the voltage, you will need to replace the water inlet valve W10245167.
After 5 yrs we connected the refrigerator to a water source, the ice maker worked as great as it did before we moved into our current residence(5 yrs ago.) The water though kept dripping out of the dispenser. Do we need to replace the water valve intlet on the back of the refigerator or is there another possible to solution to get the drip to stop. (It is a rather fast drip, and after waiting 5 yrs to have the ice maker connected I want to keep my hubby on this project until it is fixed. Please let me know soon.
Answer Cindy, Disconnect the water dispenser water line from the door assembly (remove the lickplate, locate the double hose connector, and disconnect one of the hoses), use a large pitcher or container and press the water dispenser paddle, and allow 2 to 3 quarts of water to flow through the supply tube, into the pitcher. Reattach the hose, and using a large glass dispense another quart of water through the dispenser, into the glass. This should "flush" out all the air and debris in the system and the dripping should cease. If not, then replace the fill valve W10245167. Thanks and Good Luck